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It sounds like the thermal fuse. Without knowing model number I cant tell you exactly. Depending on how you access it. Near the blower housing you will see a little white sliver fuse ot a round fuse with two wires running to it. The one next to it has 4 wires running to it. Disconnect power before opening the dryer... Take a meter and see if it has continuity. If not its bad. Anything further please feel free to reply.
It is hard to tell exactly what is wrong without seeing it in person, but I can tell you what to look for. First check the power coming to the dryer.... is a breaker tripped? If you have fuses, make sure both fuses for the dryer are good. Even if only one is bad the dryer wont work. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check for power, first at the dryer receptacle, then where the cord connects to the dryer. It is important to wear safety glasses when doing this. Then you might check the door switch on the dryer. It is one of the first parts to go bad on some models. If you are not familiar with electricity, it would be good to have an experienced person check out your dryer.
You Will have to use an ohm meter and the tub has to be taken out. You can on a GE open the door and push in on the door switch and starte it with the door open and look straight in and see the heater come on but if either the heat element of thermostat is out the element wont come on. If you live in ahouse with fuses instead of circuit breakes or a fuse box between the dryer and main circut box check the fuses an electric dryer will run on one fuse but not heat if this is the case switch the fuses and see if it runs if not one fuse is bad.
You may have a bad thermal fuse (located on the blower housing) or a bad cycling or high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat and thermal fuse are easily checked with a ohmmeter or continuity tester (with machine unplugged, of course). They should have continuity -- replace them if open. If they are bad, carefully check your vent. These are often damaged by excessive heat due to a restricted dryer vent.
You must pop off the top of the dryer then remove the front after the front is off you can remove drum . The belt goes around the drum and the motor pully and under the tentioner wheel after you get belt on replace front and top.
PLEASE MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG FROM POWER THIS IS 220volts AND CAN HURT YOU BAD
If this is still shorting out when you turn on with new fuse, then either there is a shorted wire in the system or there is a bad capacitor. Capacitors handle a specified current flow to the rest of the circuits.
you can use a multi-tester to find shorted currents and open circuits
I'm assuming that the dryer is gas, since both the washer and dryer are on the "same" breaker. I'd try replacing the wall plug before replacing the dryer. If you have a voltage tester, you should see if you are getting an honest 110 volts coming off the circuit. Since the circuit was a problem before, I would test it first and then more on.
Ok are you saying that the fuse from end to end has 120V? Even if it reads continuity; if its reading 120V from end to end, the fuse is bad. replace it before you do anything else. and on electric dryers you should have 220v across both top and bottoms of fuses with power applied to the fuses. Any readings beyond or lower indicate a blown fues. But the correct way to check a fuse is with power applied and from end to end of the same fuse. A -0- reading or <10 v is ok with an electronic vom but trust me if its getting 120v end to end (on the same fuse) the fuse is out.
IUf this helped you please rate me accordingly and good luck.
ck whiten thermal fuse on blkower housing of dryer may be behind back panel..if fuse of ck the flame sensor with volt ohm meter should show a complete circuit..or just jump it out in any case should be 110volts fed to connector going to valve ..also may be bad ignitor (glow plug)may show burnt spot