Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore dryer 90 series

Why did we get cut off?

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  • andydale Feb 27, 2010

    how to hook the cord for this dryer?

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  • Contributor
  • 64 Answers

I’m so sorry my pc crashed on me..... Power Supply went out and I just got a new one put in.....I hope you got your answers......If not please let me know so I can help

cbinny1

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

  • Craig Binford
    Craig Binford Oct 30, 2008

    Did you still need help with this issue?

    cbinny1

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series

bad motor

Posted on Feb 07, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 90 series dryer's pilot light is out.

If your flame sensor is open then the ignitor will not fire up. Read more
Post your model number to any of these fine forums for
a simple answer that will save you lots of money:
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?referredby=858
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/
http://applianceguru.com/

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 90

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • 2667 Answers

SOURCE: 9 yr old Kenmore 90 series dryer wont heat

is it gas ? next time open dryer door and send full model number if it heats for a while you have bad gas coils,when you change them out watch out for the coil with three prongs on it,there is a metal piece that sometime gets stuck in old coil when you remove it,if it happens just poke it out of old coil and slide it back on post where new coil will be installed

Posted on Nov 07, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore series 90 dryer has no heat but it runs

The life of the dryer can be indefinite if maintained properly. I've worked on Kenmore dryers that were over 20 years old. Components do wear out from normal wear and tear sometimes and require replacement. Most of these components are not expensive and can be replaced by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, not maintaining the dryer exhaust ventilation can shorten the life expectancy of the heating circuits. Most commonly, this problem is caused by a blown thermal cut-out, or failed heating element.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

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