I cant really explain in detail every wire goes to X, However
All units regardless of design will have common requirements electrically .
As you know the power is 2 hot legs of 115v and a ground for the high voltage side, and 24 volts for the control circuits.The 230v will enter on the contactor,some use 1 leg, some both, some use the start winding as a crancase heater and will not be opened by the contactor.
That said the L1 and L2 legs will go to Common and Run terminals on the compressor, the run cap will be run and start, a start cap with a potential relay will be 5 to common, 2 to start and 1 to 1 side of the start cap the other side of the start cap is Run so the leg that goes to run will be run to run to run, run winding to run cap to r on start cap.
most use PTC THERMISTOR START ASSISTS SO THE OLDER RELAY i DESCRIBED MAY NOT BE THER HAVING A START ASSIST THAT SIMPLY WIRES IN PARALELL TO THE RUN CAPS TERMINALS R AND S or run and start.
The defrost is exactly how a domestic ****** works, time AND temp
initiated, time OR temp terminated, using a mechanical timer as Ranco E15 or a solid state board if newer, 1 leg of the condenser fan will be ran through the defrost timer as wll since defrost is just AC mode with the condesnser fan off, and the strips will temper the air so not to cool the home as the units defrosting . the sequence of operation and types of relays will matter, but at this type of communications I cant get much more detailed, without specifics, the low voltage is as any AC except with a Orange for reversing valve thast is energized in heat or cool mode, try O and if opposite put the wire on B on the stats subase.
SOURCE: 1997 Amana 2 or 2.5 ton heat pump, 13 seer - air handler only blows 4-5 min
do you have a totaline t-stat. they and some other brands have a fan recirculation setting in the installers menu.
this is assuming that this happens in addition to the heating or cooling normally
SOURCE: I have a new 13 seer rheem 4 ton heat pump system
On a heat pump the difference from heat to cool is the reversing valve.
In cooling or heating the Y1 terminal will always be energized, this is the contactor.
Depending on brand the reversing valve will either be energized in Heat or Cool. At the outdoor unit check to see if the reversing valve is getting 24 volts in cool, if not check to see if it is getting 24 volts in heating. The easiest way to check if the reversing valve is shifting, is to feel the big copper tube, (it is not the suction line on a heat pump) this is a refrigerant vapor line. It will be cold in cooling and hot in heating.
Check your thermostat installation instructions and heat pump installation instructions to determine the proper terminal designations for your heat pump and thermostat. There are some brands out there that use the B terminal as common to the 24 volt circuit, so you have to check the wiring and make sure this is not common.
If it is energized in Cool then the Y1 and O terminal will be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and O.
If it’s energized in Heat then the Y1 and B terminal should be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and B.
If you get heat when you’re calling for cooling or vice versa then switch the wire between the B and O terminals.
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