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If its a gas furnace it could be the heat sensor on the pilot flame unit. When the sensor is failing it stops telling the control that the pilot is lit properly and the furnace goes thru another start up sequence. You can try to scrape any flash and dirt off of the heat sensor rod to clean it or remove it and clean or replace the sensor or the pilot assembly. There are plenty or furnace parts on Amazon. The next most likely thing is the relay board is ready to fail that part is ~$80 but you need to get the part number right and be experienced with wiring. WARNING-DANGER B4 you do anything to your furnace Turn Off The POWER first! If there is no plug or switch near by, shut of the circuit breaker! If you don't know what any of this means then you are likely not a good choice to mess with this device Be Safe :)
If your furnace has a filter or fan compartment door, be sure it closed tightly and that the filter is installed correctly - there could be an interlock switch that is preventing the thermostat from operating. Also, if you haven't already turned off the power to the furnace, do that, wait a minute and then turn it back on.
Obviously, make sure the thermostat is on, is set to heat and calling.
Take the burners out and wire brush them to get the clogged holes opened. Including the side discharge gas traveling holes. Blow out the burners with shop air and check the fresh air supply and the smoke stack.Retry.
The problem you describe sounds pretty much like your gas valve is going bad. There is a brand by Honeywell called a Smart Valve which is anything but smart, when the electronics in the valve start going bad the furnace will run great for a day or two and then the next day may not run at all and then an hour later my run and then an hour later may not run again. Very sporadic operating furnace is usually the Honeywell Smart gas valve going bad.
We had the same problem with the same furnace, CODE 32 DISPLAYED ON THE LEDS. I fixed it by cutting the air inlet pipe and using a hair dryer to supply heated combustion air to the furnace. Once I did that it started to run more and more until it finally heated the house up and works fine, so far so good.
We had a severe drop in temps, sunday it was 40 and rain and that night it dropped to -5 I suspect those conditions contributed to the problem. Wife observed this has never occurred before in 14 years of operation.
you should have 24 volts between yellow and white wires at the stat when the stat is set to heat and set as hot as it will go. burners should light first then 3 to 5 minutes later the fan motor should fire up. if burner doesn't light check the wires going into the top of the gas valve see if you have 24 volts arriving there from the stat. if you do then the gasvalve is probably bad. you can bypass the action of the stat by jumping red to white on 90 percent of the stats made and in a few seconds the gas valve should click open gas flow to main burner where pilot ignites it. another easy check you can do is flip stat fan switch to on. fan should come on at once. if not then you have either no high voltage to unit or no low voltage ( as in a bad transformer). if the fan comes on you know you have high volts and low volts...by cover i assume you mean the decorative cover but there second cover with the mercury bulbs and all is still there. if you have only the bare subbase then new stat time. sounds like an old furnace if it has a standing pilot, it should be checked for cracked heat exchanger by a pro with a n electronic carbon monoxide detector. NOT a diy item due to the real danger of co poisoning.