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Whirlpool special edition 3 cycle dryer(electric) wont start

Dryer has worked fine , then , go to use it yesterday and it is dead as hell . it has ample power supply , not tripping breakers , its not the door switch , nor the push to start switch [ i jumped these to test... ] also , power cord checks out as being good . at the fuse block , in the center on the back I 've got 115 volts on the black , zero on the white ,115 volts on the red measuring with multi meter from the green ground . any Ideas ?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Roper Dryer

You may have tried this but every time mine has ever stopped and refused to restart was because I forgot to clean out the lint in dryer screen.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: roper electric dryer

go back to timer ck continuity with timer in any run postion from black to blue wire (i think..better ck wiring diagram under console..you're looking for the contacts in timer to make that control motor)

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: dryer starts and runs for about 2 to 3 minutes

make sure that the unit is not also grounded to the neutral via ground strap or green wire that goes from neutral terminal to the body

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: did a load last night

Good day,
Sounds like a bad door switch.
When the door is open, the power flows to the light.
When the door is closed, the power flows to the push to start switch.
2. styles. Older models you remove 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel, pull out bottom of the panel and drop down.
Machine must be unplugged first.
Newer models, you must use a thin putty knife between the top panel and the front panel.
There are 2 clips that must be depressed to release the top lid.
The panels are tight to each other, and finding the location of the clips is difficult.
Some techs use a plastic putty knife so as not to damage the finish.
The clips are near both ends and must be depressed and the lid lifted slightly, one side at a time.
Slide the putty knife in near the center, then start sliding it to one side until you feel it hitting the clip.
Mark the area were the putty knife stopped.
Remove the putty knife, move it over about an inch and a half.
Insert it, and force the clip rearward until it releases and lift that side up slightly.
Repeat on other side. Then the lid will lift up.
You will be able to see how to access the switch at this point.

There are many reasons a dryer will not run, but if the light went out, and it fails to start at the same time, this is the obvious answer.
Please post back, if this solution fails..
Jack...

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 314 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer has stopped working. Power cord is

  1. If the tumbler won't spin when it operates, unplug it and try to move the tumbler by hand. If it won't budge, then something is jammed. If it turns with no resistance at all, you may have a problem with your drive belt. If it turns with consistent, minor resistance then the problem may be electrical. Follow the instructions of your user's manual to remove the tumbler so the belt drive and motor are visible. Inspect the drive belt. If it hangs loose, it needs to be tightened. If it is frayed or has worked its way up the drive shaft, it should be replaced. Try to turn the driveshaft leading from the motor by hand. If it won't budge, then your motor is seized and needs to be replaced. If nothing is wrong with the belt or the motor, then the problem is in the control circuit. It may be damaged, preventing the motor from engaging.
  2. If the dryer stops working mid-cycle and will not respond to any of the control functions, unplug it, empty it of clothing and pull it away from the wall. Remove the service panel on the back and open it. Be mindful of smoke and the smell of burnt plastic; these are good indications that something carrying electricity has just died. This particular model of dryer is notorious for its electrical plug and power block, which should be the black box near the bottom in the back. If there are any signs of charring, melting, or discoloration, the power cord and block are your culprits. These can be replaced with a new power cord and terminal-connection wire kit obtained at any hardware store. If there is no indication of electrical damage, the problem is likely the control circuit set underneath the control board on the face of the dryer. Such boards can't be fixed, only replaced--a task best left to a certified repairman.
  3. Ultimate Car II Dryers are fitted with a mechanical timer that sends an impulse to the control circuit board to stop running once the set amount of drying time has elapsed. This is because, should an electronic timer fail, this would necessitate the replacement of the entire circuit board. Confirm that the mechanical timer is indeed broken by opening the dryer's door. If the dryer stops, the circuit board is working fine and is not the problem. Simply slide off the protective faceplate of the dryer, unscrew the control board beneath, and flip it over. Connected to the back of the timer's knob should be a small round device with two wires running to the circuit board within the body of the dryer. Unscrew this device from the back of the knob and disconnect the wires. A replacement timer costs a few dollars and should screw into place without trouble. Reconnect the wires and put the dryer back together. It should work fine now.
  4. please comment on these solution staying on how it help.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

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