Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check the following:
Air-gap device: The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube:There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout:Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During spin cycle only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Look at the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Also, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it.
Pump: If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Main tub seal: The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Outer tub:The steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, develope a hole in some way. If this happens, you may have to replace the outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
overloaded & unballanced has mabe pulled drum away from the rear bearing!
& jammed iself!
only way now is to disconnect power & water & undo cabinet to inspect it!
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
there is always a little water left in the drum assembly when done pumping. however it is usually well below the level of the clothes basket/drum so that there is none contacting the clothes when at rest.
if you can actually visibly see water within the clothes basket/drum when the cycle is complete, then check below.
have you lengthened the drain hose beyond the standard length to reach to your taller than normal sewer/drain inlet??? if so then you're getting more water returning to the unit when the pump shuts off and if the extra hose is long enough then theres enough water returning to your tub so that the basket sits in water at rest..
if so you'll need to install a check valve to keep the additional water from going backwards into your unit. some of these units have one built into the drain hose where it connects to the pump.. i tried looking yours up via the model # listed on the 1st page but got nowhere with that number.
you could also have a restriction in your pump or drain assembly that may be slowing things down some.. can't be of more help without proper model # though..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
The drain hose needs to come up higher than the water level in the machine, unless it is one that does not have a pump.
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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