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Heating element bad changed it heats up fine now,but now timer is not working

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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zeusfaber
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore electric dryer throwing breaker

Might not be a dryer problem. Following assumes that the breaker that's going is an overcurrent device (something in place of a fuse - what we in the UK usually call an "MCB") rather than an earth leakage circuit breaker. MCBs often have two trip devices - an electromagnetic trip which protects against major faults, and a thermal backup which protects against chronic overload. It could be that you're cooking the thermal element. How much current is the dryer meant to take? (Calculate by dividing power consumption in watts by supply voltage). Is there anything else coming off the same circuit breaker at the same time? Calculate the current drawn by the other loads, and add them all up. If the total current is more than the rated current of the breaker, not only have you found the likely source of your problem but also you've identified that you are overloading your wiring (finding this out is a good thing, as it gives you the opportunity to stop before you set the place on fire). If the total current is below, but near the rated current of the breaker, then you may have a problem with the breaker itself. Possibilities include inadequate ventilation around it or location in a cabinet which is picking up external heat (both need sorting out urgently) - or it may be that the breaker is old and tired and has gone out of calibration. Investigating any of these needs more skill than it's wise to try to acquire from a stranger on the web. A.

Posted on May 24, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced element, oven is still not heating

You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.

The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: CDE6500W Not Heating

It appears you have a Electric dryer (220V)So, if you feel any heat at all after its been on for say 2 minutes than your element is fine.Your problem is most likely the air thats leaving the dryer is being blocked.If you want to be 100% sure its not a vent problem than do this..run the dryer for ONE load on timed dry cycle (60 minutes)without the vent hose attached and you'll know in 60 minutes if its ok.This is the easiest way to help you.If you can ,place a nylon sticking around the vent hose for this one time so it doesnt blow dust around.I'll be happy to guide you through this.

Posted on May 21, 2008

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer heating element does not turn off when tumbling stop

your timer is bad,the cost of a timer is close to a new dryer.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 492 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool LER4634PQ1 it was working just fine then all of a sudden the dryer just keeps running the knob on the dryer doesn't move and the air isn't warm. Any suggestions on what to s


there is a cycling thermostat in line with the high limit thermostat and timer circuit,on timed dry its disabled and the timer will run no matter what,on any sensor dry setting it uses the heat of the element to heat this cycling thermostat to move the timer as the clothes get drier as the heating element heats the timer doesn't move,when the heater cycles off from the high limit thermostat then timer moves again,you need to find out if its a bad heating element,thermal fuse or possibly even a circuit breaker in the homes electrical panel tripped out on one of the 2 phases that gives you the 240 volts required to operate the dryer element,the breaker may not show its tripped,so shut it off and back on and try this first

Dec 11, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer wont heat


either the element is bad our the diode that controls the heat element is bad

Jul 04, 2012 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Not heating/ not the heating element


Number 1 might be blown. to check it remove at least on wire. If it is open the dryer will operate but not heat. if the limits are all fine and the element is fine (you checked it with wires off) then you might have a bad timer. Find the red wire from element to timer and remove it from timer. Check for continuity on that terminal to any other terminal on the timer. Turn the timer and check in all cycles. if you cannot get a reading then you indeed have a bad timer.

Service Manual and photos

Jun 18, 2012 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer seems to work (runs, tumbler turns, timer works, air flows) except there is no heat. I see that there could be several reasons for this, how do I isolate the problem and fix it?


First look for reasons why safety components would trip and remedy them thangsthemobilian_1642.jpgthemobilian_1643.jpgthemobilian_1644.jpgthemobilian_1645.jpg
So once we have that ironed out we now have an idea where to look first. If the dryer is clean and the vent is clear and you still have no heat then one of your heating components have failed. The heating components are the element, coils, sensors, ignitors and controls.
themobilian_1646.jpgthemobilian_1647.jpg
So if the element is bad simply replace it and you now have heat but what if the element is ok?
themobilian_1648.jpgthemobilian_1649.jpgthemobilian_1650.jpgthemobilian_1651.jpgthemobilian_1652.jpgthemobilian_1653.jpgIf your ignitor and flame detector is fine you may have the very common problem of weak coils themobilian_1654.jpg
If it turns out thet your safetys are fine and your heating components are fine then you could have a bad controlthemobilian_1655.jpg
If your control is fine you could have a bad circuit breaker.The motor on American machines is 120 volt of alternating current but the 5000 watt heating element requires 240 volts.themobilian_1656.jpg

I have include a dozen or so Dryer service manuals and more HERE

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Let Me Know.

Mar 03, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

Samsung fridge rs52530bwp the fridge side will not work


I have a similar situation before in your case if your heating element is working then you are lucky I had a samsung fridge and the defrost heating element was bad and i was forced to install a different one because i would have to change the hole evaporator in order to replace the heating element so what dit was to use a mechanical 10 hour defrost timer and install a generic heating element and a defrost thermostat on serial so it want work on less the evaporator has froze over i drill a hole to the back of the fridge and i wren the cables to the back of the fridge cover then whit foil tape an take power directly from the power cord i install the timer next to the control board so every 10 hours will give power to the heating element but will not come on unless the evaporator has froze up. on my case i had to do it like that because the heating element i use was to strong for the control board and would just burn it up. but will work even better using the original heating element. NOTE: find the diagram of a old fridge that will help you to figure out how to install the timer and the defrost thermostat no need for the timer to cut off the compressor keep in mind than the defrost thermostat only close the circuit when is chill below freezing so i recommend to use a new one I hope this help you

Jun 10, 2009 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Dryer doesnt work but i hear the timer working


Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal

Jan 18, 2009 | Kenmore 60172 Electric Commercial Dryer

1 Answer

Fisher Paykel Heating Element.


you have eather a bad timer or bad motor .

Nov 08, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Kenmore Dryer


I am sorry to hear this, my name is Marc White, i am self employed and it seems as though you have a bad timer, bad timer will cause the timer not to go to the off position and blow your fuse......change your timer..


thanks

Apr 03, 2008 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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