Question about Estate Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Might not be a dryer problem. Following assumes that the breaker that's going is an overcurrent device (something in place of a fuse - what we in the UK usually call an "MCB") rather than an earth leakage circuit breaker. MCBs often have two trip devices - an electromagnetic trip which protects against major faults, and a thermal backup which protects against chronic overload. It could be that you're cooking the thermal element. How much current is the dryer meant to take? (Calculate by dividing power consumption in watts by supply voltage). Is there anything else coming off the same circuit breaker at the same time? Calculate the current drawn by the other loads, and add them all up. If the total current is more than the rated current of the breaker, not only have you found the likely source of your problem but also you've identified that you are overloading your wiring (finding this out is a good thing, as it gives you the opportunity to stop before you set the place on fire). If the total current is below, but near the rated current of the breaker, then you may have a problem with the breaker itself. Possibilities include inadequate ventilation around it or location in a cabinet which is picking up external heat (both need sorting out urgently) - or it may be that the breaker is old and tired and has gone out of calibration. Investigating any of these needs more skill than it's wise to try to acquire from a stranger on the web. A.
Posted on May 24, 2007
You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.
The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.
PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
SOURCE: CDE6500W Not Heating
It appears you have a Electric dryer (220V)So, if you feel any heat at all after its been on for say 2 minutes than your element is fine.Your problem is most likely the air thats leaving the dryer is being blocked.If you want to be 100% sure its not a vent problem than do this..run the dryer for ONE load on timed dry cycle (60 minutes)without the vent hose attached and you'll know in 60 minutes if its ok.This is the easiest way to help you.If you can ,place a nylon sticking around the vent hose for this one time so it doesnt blow dust around.I'll be happy to guide you through this.
Posted on May 21, 2008
Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
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