Question about Bosch 24 in. SGS43C12 Classixx Free-Standing Dishwasher
Salt dispenser full of gunge. can we empty ?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there should be no salt getting into the wash cavity. if you are sure that it is leaving salty water on the items then either the salt cap is loose/damaged or the regeration system is faulty-this is an expensive fix.
Posted on Jun 16, 2007
Does soap draw open at right time?
Same solenoid opens soap draw as injects rinse aid.
Turn up hardness counter ?
Any blockages in dispenser unit its-self?
OTHERWISE CALL IN THE PROFFESIONALS !
Posted on Apr 25, 2008
Hi, Logmanup (slight bouts with dyslexia, sorry)
By "spinning water dispensers", I assume you mean the spray arms, right? OK... if they are getting clogged with debris it would be nice to know what kind of debris. Pieces of broken glass? Plastic? Lime scale? Iron? And yes, when they get clogged they won't rotate, won't allow pressurized water through and therefore won't clean the dishes.
For the purpose of this solution, I'll assume that there are little white particles clogging up the jets on the spray arms. This indicates hard water and lime scale build up.
Other than completely disassembling the entire motor/pump assy. (you really don't want to go there), the best way to clear this out of the system is to use an over the counter chemical called Dishwasher Magic or something similar. If the lime scale build up is really bad (and it sounds like it is), use a couple of bottles to start with and follow up with a bottle per month thereafter.
As an aside... If I assumed correctly about the lime scale build up, that means that it's also affecting other appliances as well. Mainly, your hot water heater. If you haven't done it before, please read this to perform maintenance on it. And a product something like this for your washing machine.
I hope this was helpful. Let us know if this works or not. If not, please write back and we'll go a little deeper.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher soap dispenser
all you have to do is take a flathead screwdriver and look at the dispenser it has a locking metal around thecase where the dispenser goes. it a press in and listen to it click thats when you know that section is in.the plastic around the dispenser is the section where it snaps in. also unplug the dispenser. its only one plug in. very easy but atrick that i use is make sure the rubber gasket is lubricated with something like dish soap.when installing it you have to push hard and listen for the snaps .nyc appliance repair can handle at 1-888-692-1055 based in nyc
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
It's most likely a fault with the control module or the drain pump. Please follow these instructions to detemine the likely cause of the fault and, therefore, what to do next:
1. Turn the programme selector to any wash cycle but don't press start.
2. Open the door and pull out the lower rack
3. If the washer is dry, pour roughly a pint of water into the sump in the bottom of the washer
4. Locate the float (the mushroom) and lift it . . .
When the float is fully lifted (about 3/4 of an inch) the drain pump should start and drain any water from the washer. This activates the anti-flood safety feature and the pump should continue to run as long as the float is lifted. The power supply to the drain pump bypasses the controller so this is the best way to determine if the drain pump is faulty.
If the water drains when you lift the float . . .
The drain pump is working but it's not receiving the signal to start from the controller during a wash cycle. It may be a wiring problem, but more likely that your control module will likely need to be repaired or replaced. These cost about £100 - if you replace it yourself.
If you can hear the pump humming but water does not drain when you lift the float . . .
There may be a blockage somewhere or the pump impeller may have jammed or broken away from the driveshaft. Try lifting and dropping the float rapidly about 10-20 times. Repeated stop/start signals to the pump motor can free a stuck impeller.
If nothing happens when you lift the float . . .
There is either no power to the pump motor or, more likely, the pump motor has failed. You will need to test the motor to determine whether or not it needs to be replaced. You will need a Torx T20 screwdriver or screwdriver bit to remove the kickplate under the door and an ohm / multi-meter to test the motor.
The drain pump motor should give a resistance reading of between 110 and 260 ohms across the live/hot and neutral/common terminals if the motor is good. In most cases, the reading is about 160-170 ohms.
I'd suggest testing the drain pump using the float as detailed above, then let me know the results. I'm happy to provide further assistance once the likely cause of the fault has been determined.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 10, 2011
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