Question about KitchenAid Refrigerators

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Ok so I have been trying to trouble shoot our kitchenaid refrigerator model: KSRA25FKSS00. So at first the over temp buzzer kept going off. I had major ice in the bottom of the freezer. I didn't ck the coils, but defrosted it, unplugged the drip hole, which was all frozen. I left it for a few days to defrost. Hoping this fixed the prob. It didn't. The buzzer kept going off still, and more ice everywhere. So once again defrosted it, vacuumed dust underneath in the coils, and put a copper wire from the defrost heater coil thru the drain hole in the freezer. This seemed to work for the ice problem in the freezer for the time being. The temp was good it says 37 in the fridge, but, freezer read -20 The buzzer didn't go off for about a week. Bummer. So after reading all about this same prob, I checked the air diffuser, it looks fine, then I tried to check the thermistor, it's very hard 4 me with the multimeter, but it did read ohms going higher and higher. Then back to 0. I think I should have my husband do it tho. I put the thermistor and air diffuser back. Next day the fridge read 37, (kind of goes up and down in temp). The freezer still reads -20. All the fans are working, evaporater, and the one in the back under the fridge. Is it ok if the freezer says -20. Did I just fix the defrost prob with the copper wire for a quick fix, or should I check something else? Just seems like its running constant. Should I have my husband check the thermistor for the air diffuser, and how do I know if it's good?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: 'ice dam' on bottom of freezer, now problems with fluctuating temps

Kat, you only have 1 problem happening.And no this is not due to the original repair. (though I have to admit... replacing the filter/drier, starter and compressor is NOT part of routine maintenance and has me a little befuddled.) Your evaporator drain is plugged. Most likely with what we in the biz call "bio-gookus". This is normal, but must be cleared to keep the water from puddling and coming out your freezer door. With the evap panel removed and the drain hole exposed, pour 1/4 cup of HOT water into the drain hole. Use a small screwdriver or other small instrument to pick out the ice buildup. Once this is clear, use something like this http://www.azpartsmaster.com/shopazp/Gallo+Condensate+Blowout+Guns+(A66800).html to blow out the rest of the lines. After doing this, pour more hot water into the drain to verify free flow. This will take care of your leak problem. Now... the frost buildup. NEVER RUN YOUR FRIDGE WITH THE PANELS OFF! They are there for a reason, believe it or not. They direct air flow across the coils (both evaporative and condensing). Frost buildup is normal, though you may be experiencing higher levels of frost because of the panel missing...Your fridge utilizes an automatic defrost system. It'll initiate every 8 hours. This is controlled by a timer located in your fresh food section. The defrost heater RARELY fails on these. Fix the evaporator drain and replace all panels. This will solve your dilemma.

Posted on Aug 09, 2007

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost issue

its the timer if you manually advance it and it heats the back of the freezer please rate my advice...

Posted on Oct 03, 2007

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE side-by-side refrigerator/freezer

Yes keep us updated with the final results.After you try to plug in the line by-passing the filter.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Dec 02, 2010

kdrake84
  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE Profile (TCX18PAADLBS) fridge. The

The old GE refrigerator not cold......imagine that. many many issues with GE refrigerators.
Be patient with me and we can get this done for you.

We first need to ensure that the freezer is cold....check your freezer temp. If it is where you want it that is very good news.

Now watch the video that will show you the freezer section,how a refrigerator circulates the air with the evaporator fan. This fan sucks up the cold air from your evaporator coils...(no ice built up on these? if there is then we have a totally different issue) and then blows it over to the refrigerator side. the video is with the freezer on top of the refrigerator just want you to get a general idea of how the air is blown over from the freezer section to the refrigerator side.Watch the video,click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnRKj7_BtNw

Now what you will need to check is the cold air getting over to the refrigerator?
If not then the issues will be either the evaporator fan is bad or the diffuser door is stuck closed.
You will need to check the evaporator fan motor....is it being told to come on? check the voltage to it....if it is being told to come on and it isnt then replace it.
If it does come on then you will need to check your diffuser or dampner door.
Your model number comes up empty...click on the link to see where your model number can be located http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJI_8_Tjplw

When you find your model number go to this website click the link searspartsdirect.com
enter your model number then click on model....your refrigerator drawings should appear. On the top of the refrigerator side either straight back or on the left hand side is the dampner.Take this apart to see if the door is broken or stuck in the closed position. I cant help you anymore without the model number you can email me kdrake84@yahoo,com for further assistance when you have the model number.

Posted on Feb 05, 2011

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Amana Side by side refrigerator Model#:

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

I really think that you have a door switch problem. The fan power is supplied via the door closed switch. The wiring diagram is here
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=28596988&pkw_=basket&model_id=5173932&NewWindow=1
and the switch on the diagram is on the left side of the middle of the page just to the right of the vertical line. If this switch has failed you will not have ice in door functions and the evaporator fan will not work. The switch has 3 wires on it. They switch is labeled C (Common) NO (normally open) and NC (Normally closed) The NC wire powers the light with the door open and the NO wire powers the evaporator fan and ice functions with the door closed.

You can lift this switch out of the cabinet by sliding a thin bladed knife or putty knife along the side to release the single locking tab. The light should go off when the door switch plunger is depressed and the evaporator fan should run. It is possible with a BAD switch for the light to go off but the fan not run when the switch plunger is depressed. You need to read voltage out of the switch with the plunger depressed. No voltage on NO plunger depressed = bad switch. (Note you must have power on C at all times!)

This is the door switch for your unit:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4008827
It is item 4 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5173932&diagram_id=28596964#d28596964

The information above should help you determine the problem. If not just respond here and I will help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly


Posted on Feb 06, 2011

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