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There is very little to an inspeaker crossover that could go bad unless it was SEVERELY overdriven. I recommend checking the speaker individually on a wire from a stereo or something powered to verify this. A crossover is nothing more than a capacitor (high cutoff) and an inductor.(low cutoff). The 600 watts rating of the cabinet is an RMS rating, meaning, .707 actual peak value free of distortion. This means that you can only drive it about 71% of that without distorting or damaging it. You said, "very little signal gets to the speaker", which sounds like "very low volume" meaning, magnet stuck, speaker not moving much, meaning warped voice coil. Check that the speaker will move back and forth with your hand freely without interference or scratchy noise. If it doesn't, the voice coil is warped and the speaker needs to be reconed or replaced.
These cabinets are self contained and you do not use a crossover with them. The speakers do NOT come out to separate connectors. You just drive these with an amplifier. DO PAY ATTENTION to the power rating... you are safe using an amplifier with a MAXIMUM of 150 Watts RMS per speaker cabinet. More than that and running them loud and you will be replacing the speakers. These will cover a 40 foot square room at comfortable level.
This is a bi-amped speaker. That means it has a separate power amplifier driving the bass woofer and treble horn. They have a low-level electronic crossover to separate the frequencies to the appropriate speaker. The electronic crossover is the least likely to fail... so you need to do a test:
You will need to open the unit and using an ohmmeter check if the woofer speaker voice coil is open or has continuity...It should be around 6 to 16 ohms. If it is above that, the speaker itself is blown and will have to be replaced. If the speaker has continuity, then the bass amp has failed and will require repairing by person that is adept at electronic repair. Before opening the unit you MIGHT be able to diagnose whether the speaker itself is blown by seeing if the woofer generates a thump when power is turned on or off. If it does, then likely the speaker is OK and the problem is the amp, otherwise the tests above need to be done. Usually these plastic cabinets are held together with seveal scrwes from the back. Some are in :deep "wells" and will require a very long shaft phillips screwdriver... and they often are long screws that wear one out unscrewing them. A genlte pry after removing the screws will separate the back and the front.
Here is a link to the manual:http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature/manuals/00513220_7.pdf I didn't look at the manual for the crossover but this is probably the way I would do it. Look at page 13 in the manual : Come out of the Main out (31 in the diagram) into the main in of your crossover. Go out of your crossover Hi and Mid out setting back into Power amp In 1 (labelled 32 in the diagram). Hook your speakers that you normally use to the output jacks on the back of the Peavey. Make sure you match the output impedances. Go out of your crossover low output into the Pyle power amp and out of the Pyle into your subs. Make sure the impedance ratings of all your speakers match the output impedances of your amps. You will only be running in Mono mode as that is the signal output of the Peavey mixer. You can run faux stereo by using the Main monitor Out as 1/2 the pair and the Main Out as the other 1/2 to both channels of the crossover but you won't be getting a true stereo pan mode.