Question about Ford 8n,9n,2n, Tractor Starter With Drive

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I have a 9n ford replaced entire ignition system points condenser rotor distributor cap coil new plug wires it will continue cranking but will not start . is it possible the timing gear has jumped time ?

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Not real familiar but basically if it's a battery run system (not magneto) then I would turn the engine so the points are closed, Pull the coil wire from the cap and place it near the block so that you can see a spark if it happens.Disconnect the hot wire from the distributor and turn on the power. Scratch the wire to the post and it should make the coil spark. If not then something may be shorted out. (sometimes too long of bolt or a rotated wire connector) If you have spark then it's a timing issue. The only way a timing gear will jump is if a tooth is broken off and it will never run. Take the plugs out and crank it. If there's no horrible sound then it's just timing. Find TDC on #1 by holding your finger over the hole and crank it. If it's on the exhaust stroke, then you will feel nothing. Compression will blow. insert a soft wire down the hole and rotate the engine by hand. The wire will come out of the hole. It will stop and start to go down again. That point is close enough to top dead center. back off just a hair and that will be OK for timing. Taking note of rotor rotation, turn the distributor housing in the same direction until the points close. With the key on, rotate it the other way until the points spark and lock it down. That should get it running initially. Make sure that your wires are in the proper sequence. I've seen where it's been mistaken that it goes cw instead of ccw and visa versa.

Posted on Feb 23, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a Ford 9N tractor that won 't start. It's

Stop looking and either replace it or check the resistance, ( but that isn't fool proof). Did you check the distributor cap itself? Could be cracked.

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: install distributor points on ford 9n process needed

try this site... http://www.ytmag.com/atrp/specs/ford.htm

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

barterjoe
  • 338 Answers

SOURCE: Ford 9N problems; Changed plugs, wires,

You might check ground. some of these units were ground positive. did you switch the posts?This would cause problems since the electrons are on the inside of the condinser.
Good luck
Joe

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

  • 5546 Answers

SOURCE: ford 9n converted to 12

If you are doing 6 Volts at the distributor you must either have Resistor wiring or a separate resistor in the system. They make both 6Volt and identical 12Volt coils for your unit.

You will eventually burn up a 6Volt coil if you use 12Volts on it. There is an aftermarket company which has Antique supplies. Carpenter(Maybe John) has supplies for Tractors, cars and trucks that are earlier models.

Do a Web search using his name and marry it to Tractor parts, etc.

Posted on Oct 07, 2011

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You might check ground. some of these units were ground positive. did you switch the posts?This would cause problems since the electrons are on the inside of the condinser.
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Misfires across all 6 cylinders could indicate the following:

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Priority Action Part Type Cause 1 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 2 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose, Burned or Cracked Distributor Cap. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit Loose, Burned or Cracked Distributor Cap and Rotor. 6 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, Damaged, Broken, or Incorrectly Gapped Spark Plug(s). 7 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil. 8 Inspect Condenser-Ignition Faulty Condenser-Ignition. 9 Inspect Point Set Burned, Worn or Incorrectly Set Ignition Points. 15 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrect Ignition Timing. 19 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 21 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket. 22 Inspect Distributor Worn, Damaged or Faulty Distributor. 24 Inspect Valve Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.

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Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

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