The unit was working just fine then was packaged up in it original box and stored for a month or so while we moved. plug it in and it just keeps popping a fuse that is labeled F1000. its not the wall power i checked it in another house on the other side of city and same thing. it is a 2.5 amp 125v fuse. i have tried plugging in the unit with the transformer unplugged and the fuse does not blow, in fact a relay clicks and the unit wants to power up but wont because of missing voltages i assume. i replug transformer and as soon as i plug into wall power zap its done. i guess what i need to know is what voltage should be comming out of the transformer,it is a white and orange wire or maybe there could be another solution that you the expert may have and or another path to go down...i am kinda stuck without having a repair manual
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My son bar was working for 2 days and is now not going from orange to blue! I just got a brand new one from the company because my last one did the same thing! Does anyone know what's going on with this?
You can use 4 speakers. Connect 2 speakers to the A system of the JVC and the other 2 to the B system. Then select in JVC the A+B speakers position. As your receiver is stereo, this is the way you could best distribute the sound. However, if you have only 3 speakers, it would be dangerous to try wiring the third one without changing the whole impedance. So you may use 2 speakers.
Turn off power, unplugg unit, very carefully check speaker wire connections making sure no wires are touching each other or the back of the unit same at speakers connections. Also check speakers. Blown drivers can short terminals internally. This is the most likely problem. Remove the short, unit will come back on
Please check your model number, I can not find it on the JVC service website.
This is a powered sub-woofer I think. You need to have a thick black cord that connects the sub to the head unit. Then the satellite speakers get connected to the speaker jacks on the sub-woofer box. The sub-woofer should also be plugged into an A/C outlet on the wall.
The speaker outputs are labeled right there where you connect the speaker wires. You should see a red and black connector for each speaker and they are labeled "front right" "front left" "center" "rear right" "rear left".
If you do not have the thick black cord you need to connect the head unit with the sub-woofer, you can not use this system.
If you look at the head unit and give me the model number on it, I may be able to find the part you need. But I must have a good model number to work with, preferably from the head unit.
You can 'pump up' the circuit on the transmitter by pumping the power connector in and out of of the back of the tranmitter to the beat of Beethoven's 5th: da duh duh duh, da duh duh duh, da Duh Duh.
It is a little awkward the first few times you try. You have to get the power connector in far enough each pump that the unit gets a pulse of power. It has to be pumped at the right pace, not too fast, not too slow, the beat of Beethoven's 5th is pretty quick and just right.
I have been powering our WSP155 transmitter unit on at work this way for several months. We originally had 4 sets of these, only using 1 transmitter at a time. 1 transmitter, 8 speakers. Over the course of a year or two, all of the tranmitters went bad the same way and now that I discovered how, I can make them all power on using this method, so I am pretty sure yours will power on this way too.