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Go to the Apple menu and open "About this Mac." Verify that it shows the correct amount of installed memory. (My Powerbook was unusually slow one day because a memory module needed to be reseated; it didn't have enough RAM available, so it was running quite a bit out of virtual memory.)
Next, open Applications/Utilities/Activity Monitor. Click on the Memory tab ato see how much free memory you have. If there is little or none, look through the list of processes running to see what is using memory. Background system processes generally do not use more than 15 Mb; applications can use considerably more.
In Activity Monitor, click on the CPU tab. If it is running at 100% most of the time, and you have no applications open besides Activity Monitor, your system may be infected by a Trojan Horse spammer. You can confirm this by checking Network activity; if it is busy without Mail or a web browser running, and Software Update is not active, this is likely "enemy action."
If you have a combination of low CPU activity, very little free memory, and a very busy hard drive (check Drive Activity), you have too much stuff open for the amount of installed RAM. Quit your web browser, (you can reopen it again when you need it) and try to avoid having so many tabs or windows open. If you have a large amount of mail in your inbox, it's time to catch up on archiving or deleting older messages - a large inbox needs a lot of memory to run.
If you are running a massive Photoshop process in the background while watching an internet video, the CPU will be running at maximum speed, and sometimes it will get a bit behind on the video. There isn't much that can be done about it except to wait; photo rendering is inherently computation intensive.
Make sure the cooling system is running properly. Some systems will slow down if the processor gets too warm to avoid overheating. Others simply wait until the temperature hits a limit, then shut everything down (oops - there goes all the unsaved file work ...). I don't know how the intel PowerMac handles overheat conditions, but it may be the former case rather than the latter.
Do you have the original installation disk that came with the computer? You can try to boot from that CD and do a repair installation. The Cyclic Redundance Check (CRC) error refers to the media the computer is trying to access (either the CD or the hard drive). Try booting into Safe Mode (reboot and press F8 repeatedly until you get a boot menu). From Safe Mode run a checkdisk (chkdsk from command line) on the hard drive to find and repair any found disk issues.
If you have an old
and slow computer, do following to increase your system speed:
Scan Disk Click Start menu > Click run. In the run dialog box type:
msconfig to open System Configuration Window. Then open "system configuration
programs". In the General Tap click on Register and then check "Scandisk after
error by shutdown disabled" to disable ScanDisk.
2- Disable auto start
Open System Configuration (msconfig) . click on the "Startup"
tap and in the application list , Clear the check box for a startup item to
disable it on your next boot.
3- Disable Windows Startup sound Go to
Start > Settings > Control Panel and then click on " Sounds and
Multimedia" icon to open it. In the Sound tab disable Windows Startup
sound. 4-disabe unused programs Go to Start > Settings > Control
Panel and click on "Add/Remove Programs" and uninstall old and useless programs.
5- Delete offline e-mails Yes, offline e-mails especially e-mails with
attachments can slow down your pc. Delete these e-mails. 6- delete temporary
internet files Temporary internet files can slow down your pc. In internet
explorer click on tools menu and then select Internet Options and the click on "
Delete Files and Delete Cookies" buttons to delete these files. 7- Defragment
your Hard Drive Defragment your hard drive every 10 days. To defragment your
Hard Drive, click on Start menu > Programs > Accessories > System tools
> Disk Defragmenter. 8- update your Windows Turn on your Windows
Automatic Update to have recent updates for your Windows.
Restart the computer and boot into Safe Mode. Open the Start Menu.
In the white line (Start Search) area, type cmd
Right click on cmd (at Top), and click on Run as administrator. In the command prompt, type chkdsk c: /f If it still runs loud after I recommend replacing the hard drive.
Goto Start-> Run and type cmd and press enter, You will get a dos command window. Next type 'cd\' and press enter it brongs you to c:\ root. 1.Now type attrib -h -s -a -r autorun<and then press TAB key to get full filename(it will be either .ini or .inf> and then press enter. 2.Now type del autorun<TAB key> and press enter. Now type 'd:' and press enter. Now follow steps 1. and 2. again on D drive and restart the computer or you can restart the Explorer prosses in process manager. Now the problem should be solved
Start the computer in safe mode by tapping the "F8" key as it comes on.
Then open a cmd(start, run, cmd) box and type " chkdsk c: /f " without the quotes. This will check your hard drive and fix any problems.
Then see if it will start normally.
You may insert the Windows XP CD and reinstall Windows XP just to be sure. Follow the instructions on your screen and format the C Drive. Make sure you install all the required drivers to make everything work.
If you are optimistic follow the following instructions: This will help you attempt to repair your system (and not via the Recovery Console). Insert the Windows XP CD and follow the instructions on your screen. Then after a certain point, you will be asked for three options -- 1. Install Windows 2. Repair via Recovery Console 3. Some other option I don't recall.
Select the first option. Then again, follow the instructions on your screen and again the computer will ask you three options. This time select the second one -- Attempt to repair the computer (Press R).
This should start the automated repair process. This has been observed to work most of the time, but in a few rare cases it doesn't work. So I suggest you try it if you have the patience. ;-)
DOWNLOAD HIREN BOOT CD, WRITE IT TO CD THEN BOOT FROM IT
Includes HDD Diagnostics for these companies
Hard Disk Tools:
- Hard Disk Diagnostic Utilities
- Seagate Seatools Desktop Edition 3.02
- Western Digital Data Lifeguard Tools
- Western Digital Diagnostics (DLGDIAG) 5.04f
- Maxtor PowerMax 4.23
- Maxtor amset utility 4.0
- Maxtor(or any Hdd) Low Level Formatter 1.1
- Fujitsu HDD Diagnostic Tool 6.61
- Fujitsu IDE Low Level Format 1.0
- Samsung HDD Utility(HUTIL) 2.02
- Samsung Disk Diagnose (SHDIAG) 1.28
- IBM/Hitachi Drive Fitness Test 4.08
- IBM/Hitachi Feature Tool 2.03
- Gateway GwScan 3.15
- ExcelStor's ESTest 3.80
- MHDD 4.6
- WDClear 1.30
- Toshiba Hard Disk Diagnostic 2.00b
- SeaTools for Dos 1.08
- HDD Regenerator 1.51 - to recover a bad hard drive
- Ontrack Disk Manager 9.57 - Disk Test/Format/Maintenance tool.
- Norton Disk Doctor 2002 - a tool to repair a damaged disk, or to diagnose your hard drive.
- Norton Disk Editor 2002 - a powerful disk editing, manual data recovery tool.
- Active Kill Disk 3.1 - Securely overwrites and destroys all data on physical drive.
- HDAT2 4.5.2 - main function is testing and repair (regenerates) bad sectors for devices
- SmartUDM 2.00 - Hard Disk Drive S.M.A.R.T. Viewer.
- Victoria 3.33 - a freeware program for low-level HDD diagnostics
Hope this helps
If you are having trouble with Newly bought items save your self from headaches by returning them and demand a replacement or a refund! You may have purchased a reconditioned\repaired\factory defect product.