My unit which is a Ruud gas pack needs a new heat exchanger, my problem is this unit is quite old and the model # on the label on the outside of the unit is faded away. I have looked inside in all compartments hoping to find the model # but there is none to be found, any suggestionss?\
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burners could be rusted blocking gas from getting across , so it pockets up and ignites all at once ,there also could be a partial blockage in heat exchanger but this is unlikely, or more seriously the heatexchanger could be rusted out with large holes in it so when blower comes on the positive pressure pushes flame back. either way when the roll out switch is tripped it indicates a pretty serious and potentially harmful issue that should be inspected and diagnosed by a reputible company.
Short answer, yes. However you could have another problem. Replace the thermocouple that keeps the pilot lit. You can get a universal one at any good hardware or farm store. Make sure the new thermocouple is well into the pilot flame. If the blower knocks out the pilot flame again, I would be suspecting cross contamination from a crack in the heat exchanger. As the exchanger heats up, it may be causing a small crack to open and allows the blower to extinguish the flame. It may also be causing a leak of Carbon Monoxide into the heated room air. I would get it checked out very quickly.
Tried this on my unit today, and observed the same results, but got Aux Heat (with A setting), if the H (blue wire) connected to B terminal, as per instructions for my 6036 Ritetemp. However, in this case, when the set temp is reached, I hear the click, but HVAC still blows aux heat indefinitely.
I also have RUUD UBEA 17J10..., and replaced my old honeywell with 6036, and can't get heat pump working. Both of my units are 14 years old, so I'm thinking to replace them soon.
Could be a faulty thermostat, (referring to the furnace\heater. As far as the A.C., you must have a dual thermostat with a switch for A.C. and Heating. Is the thermostat digital or mercury bulb? As for the A.C. it sounds like it is going off on high discharge pressure. Is the cooling fan running that cools the condenser? It must be spinning freely or it may be starting and because it is partially seized, it will cut off with a high current draw. Anyways, the condenser must be clear of any debris, no shrubs around it. The compressor could be bad and trying to start but goes off on overload because it isn't starting. It's start capacitor could be bad and not giving it that extra boost on start up which is what a start capacitor does. Good luck.