Question about Electrolux Vacuums
Electrolux Z4730 upright vacuum cleaner
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It should be a standard Eureka U belt. That number you have is not a good number. Most repair shops should have this one. The R belt is a real thin and different material.
Posted on Mar 11, 2008
My new upright(NOT an Oreck) is over three years old and hasn't needed a new belt so far. Orecks clog very easily, and when you bring it in for repairs, or for the yearly "tuneup", what the store manager wants you to do is spend more money on the existing sweeper, new roller brush, for example. That's the reason for the yearly checkup, to BRING you back into the store so you can spend more to help Mr Oreck make more money.
Seems like you either have a connection to Oreck or simply think that an overpriced, cheaply built vacuum cleaner is actually a good machine.
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
SOURCE: How to change a belt
A very easy procedure!
Look at the front hood of the Purepower (where all the lettering is including the 1600 or whatever the model number and name is located at) and you'll see at the back two screws either side where the back wheels are. Unscrew these and then prise using your hand/fingers the floor selector dial knob off. Once that's done the hood will pop off and you can get into the roller brush and drive belt. Then simply lift out the roller brush and fit a new belt.
This method is for all Hoover Purepower models and DustManager uprights.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
This machine has two toothed belts and it makes sense to change both while you're at it. Incidentally, this is a job you shouldn't have to do very often - Sebo belts usually last at least 10 years.
So, here's how to get at the belts and change them... NOTE - any use of the words LEFT and RIGHT assume that you are looking from the REAR of the machine.
STEP 1. Separate the base from the bag compartment: press the button at bottom front centre of bag compartment and lift bag compartment upwards away from base. Sometimes this is quite stiff and four hands would be useful, you can lever it from behind with something relatively soft (the plastic handle of a dishwash brush works well) but take care to lift vertically upwards, not sideways or you risk bending a metal lever that's hard to get back into shape again. Rest assured that once you've pressed that button there is nothing holding the two parts together other than friction!
STEP 2. Turn the base upside-down and undo the FOUR DEEPLY-RECESSED SCREWS. All the surface-mounted screws are irrelevant to this job.
STEP 3. Turn the complete base right-way up, release the foot pedal and move the vacuum tubes out of vertical. The top cover will then lift off. You will see there are two belts - the pulley device between the motor and the brush roller is the sensor that measures the drag on the brushes and operates the automatic height adjuster to maintain constant drag. To the right of that double pulley is the electronic circuit board - note that it has a sensor that locates within the pulley device, be careful not to damage it.
STEP 4. At the left end of the motor cover, the drive cog is concealed by a small cover. Lift this cover out vertically, noting how it locates in the frame for when you come to put it back. Next, although not essential, it helps to remove the metal lever because if it falls out when you're not looking you may later be uncertain about how to locate the small coil spring. So slide that lever out towards the motor, noting how the spring locates.
STEP 5. Undo the two screws holding the circuit board (take care the washers don't slip away). Then undo the four screws holding the double pulley. Once that's free, you'll be able to change the belts.
Re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above process.
If you need more help, just ask. Please remember to rate this response.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
Fip it upside down and hit the roller with a malett
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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