I recently bought some Numark TTX's and love em except one of the tonearms have come loose and need to know how the tighten the tonearm base itself or disassemble tonearm. When the tonearm base is locked and not in play mode the arm itself is losse and uneven. If you have any instructions that would be greatly appreciated. I can post more details
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If i may ask, do you need extra torque above the stock one, which can be done or don't you know how to adjust the torque on a standard table and which torque do you want to increase, the start torque, which is the nonsense eveybody talks about, but your standard drive torque is way lower and why do you want it higher. Not to scratch, there's the standard torque high enough for. Or you have a cheap plattermat with way to high resistance, but as high as a vestax you won't get it. The ttx is nice...... i would spend money get rid of the space on the tonearm and cheap capacitors replacement in the unit, cause they ain't made for a constant higher current.
If you know it's the fuse, then i assume you are able to remove a push in fuse????? How long do you have the table and did you ever serviced the parts like tonearm , engine etc.... But i assume your push keeps popping out, that's often the end of your powersupply.. greets richard
Why? cause of the tonearm, bought it second hand i assume?. Yes from the inside it ain\'t a vestax or technics(2000+, not those used crap with maintenance which are worth 200euro). But why not be creative a remove the movement???? It\'s sooo easy and replace the screw arm just for a carbon piece, made out of one piece, 10 dollar and use the right measurements so you can buy a sme conecctor with tonearm cables from technics or oem table, which contain wires.
it ain\'t that easy like i say, buy read stuff at vinyl-engine about the the length of your carbon piece and you have a way better table then the ttx standard is and if you only want screws for a ttx..... goodluck searching, which counts for every brand , except technics, but they ask 3,5euro/screw---> nuts
But you\'re a scratcher i assume, why do you need a s shape option for, with the space on the tonearm space, which first needs to be taken away....
Hi, Do one thing Remove the palter and put one drop of lubricating oil in the center shaft. Also put one drop in the motor shaft. Be carefull do not drope the oil in motor pulley. If so clean the pulley with a cloth. Because it will cause slipping the belton the pulley.Then put the plater back. Rotate the plater with arms for some time. Then check.
some tables require the tonearm to be over the record area before the patter starts to spin. If thats not it, have you tried "jump starting" the platter with your finger? the direct drive "stepper" motor might be confused as to where it is at the moment. and finally remove power from the wall for a few minutes then retry.
Unless you had your tonearm replaced previously, perhaps the technician did not route the cables correctly through the tonearm base. If so, then this would explain why it works after you raised the tonearm height.
If not, then consider yourself lucky that you didn't have to replace the tonearm. Often times, replacing the RCA cables correct the problem. However, if it does not, the next step is to replace the tonearm. And if neither works, your issue is with your cartridge or headshell (which you should have checked first). Or sometimes, the work was not done correctly when the RCA or Tonearm was replaced - so make sure you use a reputable service tech for this. If you are going to do this yourself, make sure you triple check your work.
once you soldered to circuit board place - this might help
Advanced Tonearm stuff
Tightening the suspension on your tonearm
Some TT's have tonearms which seem to be loose. If you grab the tonearm and pull it gently back and forth and it seems loose you can tighten it. It shouldn't move at all. A loose suspension can severely affect it's performance - from jumping needles to binding.
It's pretty easy to tighten the suspension. You'll need a small flat screwdriver and a large one. Use the large one to loosen the outer locking screw on the top of the pivot point. Now use the smaller screwdriver to loosen up the smaller screw. Put a drop of oil where the bearings are (under that top support on the other end of the adjustment screw) so that it doesn't bind. Now tighten the small screw slowly until it just contacts the bearings. Adjust the tightness so the tonearm doesn't wiggle if you pull on it but leave it loose enough for the tonearm to pivot freely without binding. Adjust carefully and don't overtighten otherwise the bearings will be damaged! When done, tighten up the locking screw.
Tightening up the headshell locking ring
Have you put on your headshell, twisted that knurled tightener at the end of the tonearm as tight as possible and have found that the headshell still moves around? What will happen is that the headshell won't sit parallel to the record but may be tilted as a result of twisting of the headshell. This usually occurs when you change headshells a lot or if you've had your turntable for a while, and can contribute to needle jumping so here's what you do to fix it.
First read 3.2 on base disassembly. Remove the rubber base. There will be this big piece of hard black plastic covering almost everything. You'll need to remove it. To remove the tonearm assembly look for three screws (all formerly under that black plastic) and unscrew them. Be careful not to drop the tonearm when you remove that last screw!
Now, remove the tonearm assembly from the rest of the 1200, and look at the bottom of the tonearm where the headshell is put in. There will be two tiny philips screws there. Get a jewelers screwdriver of the CORRECT size and tighten those up. Put the headshell on and try wiggling it to make sure everything is right. Now put your tonearm back on and close everything back up.
hope this helps