Question about Jenn-Air JMC7000 Microwave Oven

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Jenn-air model jmc7000

Microwave blows Circuit breaker randomly, has new circuit breaker in main box. I think the microwave is causeing this. Other day the microswave shut down for about a minute after it was running, appeared to reset itself and now running ok.

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Re: Jenn-air model jmc7000

Can someone tell me where i can find fuse for microwave convection/grill oven 5kv 700ma There is a other no on the fuse TUV5m41GF

Posted on May 29, 2008

Re: Jenn-air model jmc7000

Microwave has two high power diodes, this problem usually occurs when the diode which one end is grounded with the steel body of the oven becomes faulty and starts drawing more current, so you have to replace that one with the same type, replacement is very simple as no soldering requires, it has a clamp on one end and nut bolt arrangement with the grounded end, this component can easily be found near the outo transformer of the oven. Also if the oven stops heating, check this component it may be worn out, drawing no current for magnetron.

Posted on Feb 08, 2008

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Re: Jenn-air model jmc7000

One thing to check is that all the wire connections at the breaker are really tight. Also check the wiring connections behind the built-in microwave. I have had several cases of loose wiring causing breakers to trip due to the reduced ability of the connection to carry the rated amperage flow when the wire is loose. If it isn't a built-in, try temporarily placing it somewhere so it can plug in on another circuit where there is little or no load for a test.

Posted on Aug 31, 2007

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Re: Jenn-air model jmc7000

First of all, a microwave should be on its own circuit breaker. It's very common for a breaker to blow if it has a microwave and a fridge, etc., on the same circuit. The fuse is usually rated at a lower current than the breaker, so it's very unusual for a microwave to blow a breaker without blowing the fuse. Once a breaker blows a few times, it should really be replaced. It has a bimetallic element which will experience metal fatigue and become inaccurate. This could be the problem, too. The breaker for a microwave should be no less than 15 amps, and 20-30 is better. If you or a friend has a a clamp-on ammeter, you can monitor the current the microwave consumes. This can be helpful in diagnosis.

Posted on Nov 01, 2006

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JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker

I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions

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Jenn-air microwave JMC 7000 ADB has no power

I have a different Jenn-Air built in microwave & oven combination but I'm sure my solution will work for you as well.

My microwave was plugged into an outlet located on the top of the oven. This outlet has a "circuit breaker" that tripped while we were using the self cleaning feature on the oven. You just need to reset the breaker button right next to the wall oven outlet. Why it tripped is a mystery since the microwave was not in use at the time. Bad design.

Of course, getting to the reset button is your only challenge. You need to pull the microwave and oven out of the wall/cabinetry in order to get to it. The unit is heavy so you will need help. Or, call a certified repairman and they should be able to do this for you in 30 minutes or less so the service call should not run you more than @$85 if it is no longer under warranty.

I would also suggest you contact Jenn-Air to complain about this issue and seek reimbursement from them if necessary.

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2 Answers

Jenn-Air JMC7000 Microwave Stopped working

So it's dead? (No display, no inside lights, no beeps?)

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya:

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Since the internal fuse blew, the problem has to be either a surge from the power source, or an intermittent or transient short at some point beyond the fuse. With the unit unplugged, I would first look at the varistor (surge absorber) on the control circuit board to see if it might have taken a transient. It may look charred, distorted, etc. Then I would look at the door interlock switches and mounts to see if the switches are clicking properly and if they are aligned and secure. The purpose of the monitor switch is to blow the fuse (and usually the breaker) if there is aan interlokc problem. Next would be a look at the condition of the wiring from the fuse holder all the way back to the power cord. Then just for good measure, I would test the power outlet. A toaster is a good high-current load to use. But I don't think the problem's in the wiring or breaker. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: You can find the wiring diagram, helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: Be sure to use a proper ceramic appliance fuse that's meant for the job.

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