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The Nikon Coolpix is a compact digital camera that is well-suited for amateur to semi-professional photographers. Occasionally, some issues with the built-in flash can occur. If the hardware is damaged, the camera must be taken in for repairs. More often, problems occur because of obstructions or issues with the camera's settings and are easily repairable. Follow the troubleshooting guide to fix the built-in flash.
Instructions: 1.Ensure the Nikon Coolpix digital camera battery is fully charged. 2.Wait several seconds before pressing the shutter-release button if the "Flash Ready" indicator light is flashing red. Press the "Flash Mode" button once or twice to change the flash settings from "Off" to "On" or "Auto" if the "Flash Ready" indicator light is off. 3.Ensure there are no obstructions, like your finger or the camera strap, that are preventing the flash from firing if an error message appears on the display screen and the flash is not firing when the flash mode is set to automatic. 4.Press the flash back into the camera after every photo to ensure the flash always fires in "Auto" mode instead of just in low illumination settings. Press the flash back into the camera to turn off the flash in "Manual" mode; otherwise the flash will continually fire. 5.Change the auto focus setting from "Infinity" to "Auto," "Macro Closeup" or "Self-Timer" by pressing the "Focus Mode" button once, twice or three times to automatically turn the flash back on. 6.Use only Nikon external flash accessories to avoid damage to the built-in flash and camera circuits.
You were trying to fire the flash to fast between bursts and not allowing it to recharge itself. As a rule the flash when first turned on will come up to power and the ready lamp come on is about 3 to 5 seconds, fire it the first time at full power and it will take about 8 seconds fire it again and it's going to take about 10 seconds. If you fire it before it's had a chance to regain full power you just doubled the cycle time to 20 seconds. So by you saying the batteries were getting hot I'd say you were flogging the heck out of that flash firing it every maybe 10 seconds.
Great flash you have there but, you gotta let it charge.
A work around would be to increase the ISO on the camera to three times what you were using, switch your metering mode from "Matrix" to Partial and it will triple the flash battery life before changing and reduce the cycle time significantly.
I'm going to say the lighting was horrible at this event and you had your camera ISO at 100 where you should have cranked it up to at least ISO 800 anything beyond that and you'll have digital noise issues (grain)
Your camera was most likely set on matrix metering mode where the flash is attempting to light the whole room. I'm suggesting you use partial metering where the flash in concentrating on the center part of the frame and focal point for the exposure, the background will go dark.
Not sure about your color but you should have set your "white balance" on the flash icon (lightning bolt) otherwise everything may look a little yellow.
If you are referring to the internal flash I would say you are firing the camera faster then the flash can cycle. There is a green lightning bolt that will come on in the viewfinder when the flash has charged. If you fire the first one it may be a charged flash then again you may have popped the flash composed and tripped the shutter before the flash has had a chance to fully charge. You fire again depleting the charge some more and before it has a chance to recover you fire it again so the flash never has a chance to fully charge. You need to wait till the flash ready light come on in the viewfinder.
You don't mention make or model so here is my guess as to how to thinkout the trouble of what ever is in your attic.
For some reason, your heater is mis-firing. Normally, I would expect 3 to 5 such events at which time the heater goes out on safety. The heater knows it is on safety but you don't until it gets cold in your house. When you turn the power off, wait the 30 seconds, turn it back on, the heater no longer knows it is on safety (memory cleared) so it fires. Your heater continues to fire until ? at which time it starts counting again to 3 or some number. At the max mis-fire number - it goes out on safety again ... repeat - turn it off, wait 30 seconds, turn it back on - no memory and so forth.
Do you have a service contract or regular service man? Might be time to find one.
does it run 2 to 3 seconds? does the scurity light blinks? if yes leave the switch on after running 2-3 second wait till security light stops blinking then start if light still blinks you have wiring problem. if light just stay on you have spark and fuel check injactor pulse.always remember if you have good spark ,good fuel pressure and injector pulse car should start
Does the pilot lamp light up? If so can you fire it manually by pressing on it? If the batteries are low it may simply just be taking a while to charge, the camera will not wait for it to be ready to fire and it may seem to be not working. If your flash can be fired manually however, there may be a problem with the cameras shutter or the hotshoe. You can do a basic check by pressing the star button at the rear of the camera, you should get a pre-flash. If not, there is a problem with the cameras hotshoe which you will need addressed by a service centre. If you get a preflash you can next check the cameras shutter by setting the second curtain to sync with the flash. This can be done via the cameras "Custom Function" menu, c-Fn 15. Set the camera to TV mode and chose a 1 second exposure. Take a shot with the flash attached, if the shutter is working correctly, the flash should fire a pre-flash and then a main flash. If it doesnt, the switch inside the shutter is broken and the shutter needs to be replaced. This is a pretty labour intensive repair and you may consider an upgrade as more economical.
Your strobe is faulty and needs repair at a trained service center. The actual culprit may be the voltage converter circuit that supplies the high voltage to the flash capacitor, or the voltage divider that drives the ready lamp and, at the same time, makes triggering possible.
Its all relative. With most of these compact cameras, to conserve power, the camera does not always keep the flash ready to fire at any given second. Firing the flash uses a lot of juice, so if it was always at the ready, the battery life would be reduced to half or less, which would would cause more problems.
When you press the button the camera then tries to cycle up enough flash power that it thinks it will need to light the scene correctly. This will require less time if its in the day and longer if its dark.
Add more time if the battery life is low.
Once you fire the flash and exhaust all the reserve power from the buffer, the camera will need to recycle itself to garner enough power for another flash, this again adds time.
More expensive cameras have better power management and can cycle up faster.
Yes. The *istD shutter can only provide X-sync for electronic flash up to 1/150 sec. The *istDS reaches 1/180 sec. "High speed" electronic flash is done by strobing the flash repeatedly during the period that the shutter slit is traveling across the focal plane, at th expense of cutting power output quite a bit.