Question about Roper Dryers

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Have a roper dryer model red444ovq1 that will not start. have checked door switch element,thermofuse,cycling thermostat high limit fuse the 249 volt circuit and every thing else that would normally ca

Roper dryer will not start. all the regular check have been done. door switch, element,thermoswfuse,cycling thermostat high limit fuse, 240 VOLT ,and is plugged into circuit. HELP.

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  • 61 Answers

BE SHUR TO CK FOR 240 VOLT UNDER A LOUD PUT YOUR LEED ON LINE 1 AND LIND 2 AND PUSH STAR TO SEE IF THE 240 STAY. IF YES THEN YOU CK THE FUSE FOR CONTENUTRY AFTHER TAKING 1 WIRE OFF IF YES CK TO SEE IF YOU GET 120 VOLT TO THE MOTOR ON WAITE WIRE AND BLK OR BLUE IF YES THE MOTOR IS OUT IF NOT THE CK TIMER .

Posted on Feb 22, 2012

Testimonial: "thanks ver much. "

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Have 240 volt on receptacle

Hi rbmills...
I know you have already checked some of the items below, but here are a few more to check and some suggestions.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check to make sure you are getting power to the display board.
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Posted on Sep 06, 2011

  • 3072 Answers

SOURCE: PANEL DOES NOT ILLUMINATE AND NOTHING WORKS

check the cord on the back of the dryer itself as sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced. Maybe the door switch also. Good Luck Tim

Posted on Dec 24, 2010

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL DRYER GOLD GEQ9800PW1 HOW TO MAKE IT WORK WITH 220 VOLT

ck frequency on tag if US will be 60 cycles ..most overseas areas are 50 cycles ..not gonna work without some sort of converter

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

tiger56h
  • 176 Answers

SOURCE: I have a maytag electric dryer. we are moving to a

the dryr work at 240 volt

Posted on Sep 18, 2010

vostendorp
  • 347 Answers

SOURCE: what amperage breaker required for neptune 5500

No it can NOT be wired for 110 .Actually everything it the unit runs on 110 volts except for the heating element which needs 220 volts..As far as the circuit breaker is concerned you need a minimum of 30 amps

Posted on Nov 22, 2010

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1 Answer

Brand new dryer wont heat


depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals

Feb 17, 2012 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Roper electric dryer will not heat after replacing heating element and thermal fuse. what's wrong.


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Feb 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Roper dryer does not heat . replaced heating element and thermal fuse. what's wrong


No heat at all is usually the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, the heating element or you have a bad breaker at the box and are running on 1/2 phase (or 110 only).


With the power OFF and the dryer unplugged. Use and ohms meter (borrow one or pick up a cheap one for around $10-$15) & check the high limit thermostat (right hand side at the base of the housing for the heating element), take the wires off both terminals and check for continuity between the terminal (set the meter of ohms place the black lead on one terminal of the thermostat & the red lead on the other terminal, doesn't matter which, the needle should move, if it doesn't, replace the thermostat).

You can check all the thermostats, fuses, door switch & the heating element this way.

Feb 12, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Dryers with lint filter on the front.

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Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not run


hi.

As first thing check thermal fuse and door lock.

The thermal fuse is tested using a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, then it will read open at Ohm meter. (fuse is also called thermal limiter or high limit).

The door latch is tested jumping its contacts and running a cycle.

If that is not the problem, then things will get more complex, as you will need to access the heating group to test thermostats, fan and element, and you will also need to test the motor assembly and belt.

Free air ducts from lint and test thermostats and element by reading Ohms. When thermostats and element are the problem, the machine usually spins but there is no heath.

The motor and belt are tested checking belt state and energizing motor. When this parts are bad, the machine may heat but the drum does not turn.

Repairs must be done by a trained person.

To get parts and diagrams try entering the full model number in one of the websites below:

Enter the model number ..

To contact a repairer, call the number listed on the owners manual or use the Fixya directory (US only)

Regards.

Ginko.

Nov 05, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I diagnose a problem with a dryer that works but is not getting hot? It's a Maytag MDE2600AYW


Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.

Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).

The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.

Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.

May 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer spinning but not drying!


if it runs with the door open the door switch could be defective,otherwise check your heating element high limit/cycling thermostat switch,then the thermal fuse on the side of the vent housing.and also check the power input for 240 volts a.c. if its an electrically heated element,if inside the terminal strip any terminals burn or break off the element can't heat/if its a gas dryer,check the thermal fuse,the high limit thermostat,the radiant sensor on the burner tube or the gas boost and secondary coils on the gas inlet valve,they get weak or open and close off the gas supply

May 13, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Electric Dryer No-Start/No-Heat


Try check your timer, and see if you have voltage going to motor. Also check to see if you belt is installed. If broken there is a switch to the belt also. Try check you Door Lid Switch.

Nov 18, 2007 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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