Question about Roper Dryers
Roper dryer will not start. all the regular check have been done. door switch, element,thermoswfuse,cycling thermostat high limit fuse, 240 VOLT ,and is plugged into circuit. HELP.
BE SHUR TO CK FOR 240 VOLT UNDER A LOUD PUT YOUR LEED ON LINE 1 AND LIND 2 AND PUSH STAR TO SEE IF THE 240 STAY. IF YES THEN YOU CK THE FUSE FOR CONTENUTRY AFTHER TAKING 1 WIRE OFF IF YES CK TO SEE IF YOU GET 120 VOLT TO THE MOTOR ON WAITE WIRE AND BLK OR BLUE IF YES THE MOTOR IS OUT IF NOT THE CK TIMER .
Posted on Feb 22, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Have 240 volt on receptacle
I know you have already checked some of the items below, but here are a few more to check and some suggestions.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check to make sure you are getting power to the display board.
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Sep 06, 2011
check the cord on the back of the dryer itself as sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced. Maybe the door switch also. Good Luck Tim
Posted on Dec 24, 2010
ck frequency on tag if US will be 60 cycles ..most overseas areas are 50 cycles ..not gonna work without some sort of converter
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
No it can NOT be wired for 110 .Actually everything it the unit runs on 110 volts except for the heating element which needs 220 volts..As far as the circuit breaker is concerned you need a minimum of 30 amps
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
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2-Canister for the heater element.
3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a
safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety
thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
4-This is the terminals of the heater element
that is inside the canister.
5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat
that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
7-Heater for low heat. When you select low
heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The
heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat
than the high heat mode.
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