Genelec 1032A woofer not working - Genelec 1032A Active Monitor Speaker 2 Way, 120 Watt 10 Inch Bass Driver 1 Inch Tweeter Bi amplified Monitoring System

I assume you mean the Pr-12RX passive? That seems wrong to me, too. Put an ohm meter across the terminals of the horn driver and the woofer seperatly to see which, if either, is blown. If they're OK, look for a bad solder joint on the crossover.

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The screws are behind the cardboard of the woofer

I bought a 3rd B212D unit that powers on, has white noise, no music. I took the 8 screws off and discovered that the solder connection at the woofer had broken off. I surmise that either the unit was dropped or the speaker wire had gotten hot over the years. Since the amp had an open output from the break, the high output burned up as I heard a pop when I turned the volume up. . If your volume wasn't maxed out, you could check the wiring and make sure it is connected & save yourself some change!!!

Compare the power inout voltage listed on the BACK of the speaker and compare that to your current power supply. You have not told us wheree you are or what your power there is... or the voltage listed on the back of your speakers. Giv us this info so we can better help you. These are expensive speakers to get things wrong...

black and red will goto 1 speaker. and blue/yellow to the other. typically red and yellow are + and black and blue are -. the crossover board might tell you which is which where they solder to it. but i'm pretty sure the black/red goto woofer. try hooking up both to woofer and listen to it. 1 way is going to sound horribly wrong lol. that will mean you hooked up the tweeter leads to the woofer. but DO NOT HOOK UP WOOFER LEADS TO TWEETER. thats why i say to do it on woofer.

Usually the colors you will find are red and black pair and yellow and white... USUALLY the red/blk pair go to the tweeter horn with red going to the + lead of the horn drivers. Usually the yellow/white pair go to the woofer with the white going to the + lead of the woofer in Peavey speakers... HOWEVER you never know if someone has rewired the cabinet so going by colors is NOT the best way to go... This should have the "soundgard" circuit in it and the lead that goes throught the lamp and resistor that is NOT connected to the inout jack is the TWEETER + lead. The pair that connects to the inout jack DIRECTELY is the woofer leads and the TIP connection of a 1/4 inch jack is the + woofer lead. Verifying these connections is the best method.

This speaker is not an active one. This means that it hasn't integrated amplifier, so you need an external one. The cable from the amplifier goes to the speaker. Remove the woofer in order to get access at the inner parts and check these points:

• In case that there is a crossover present there must be a burned out coil or capacitance
• In case the cable from the female jacks at the back panel goes direct to the woofer, there must be the woofer destroyed or the cable disconnected. Check the cables, it's less expensive than to replace the woofer.

Post me back if there is a crossover in use or it is direct connected and any other points of interest you came up, in order to guide you further.
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Stelios
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The part number can probably be obtained from RCF directely as the speaker may be specially made for them. The specs are:

15" high power woofer, 64mm edge wound aluminium coil

email them to request part number at:

e-mail: [email protected]

The woofers were likely the problem in the first place. DO an ohmmeter check on them.

Note that the ohmmeter often doesn't work for testing piezo tweeters, but does work for the woofers with voice coils.