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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Use a paper clip and plug it in between the GREEN (PS-ON) wire and a BLACK wire. This should get your PSU running without the potential to harm your motherboard. I also like to plug in an LED between the GRAY (PWR OK) wire and a BLACK wire, but it is not necessary.
Now that you can have the PSU running by itself, you can test the voltage on each rail without a load affecting the reading.
I'm not sure of the quality of your PSU in particular, but the better ones have good regulation to compensate for voltage droop, while the cheaper ones have little or no regulation at all.
As stated in solution #1, the problem is most likely bad output filter capacitors. This is the most common problem I find in PSUs with low or no volts on some or all of the rails.
Of the dozens and dozens of switching PSUs I have repaired, I almost always encounter vented (blown) filter capacitors in the secondary (output) side. Along with vented filter caps, I sometimes come across shorted or burned resistors. Even less often I find shorted Schottky diodes.
It's common for components to fail as a chain reaction inside of switching power supplies. The most common causes are either poor quality components (as stated above) or too high of power demand AKA overcurrent (most ofen caused by rails being shorted to ground).
The moral of the story is: If you don't know how to repair power electronics, don't bother opening the case. You're better off buying a new power supply (assuming you're in the USA).
If you do know what you're doing, then be prepared to remove all capacitors that are blown or bulging. After a visual inspection of the components still on the board, check resistance between each rail and ground. If there is no longer continuity between the rails and ground, then replace the caps with new ones of the SAME VOLTAGE RATING AND CAPACITANCE. Make sure the replacement caps are rated 105C. Good luck!
Posted on Nov 29, 2009
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