My Dryer information is as follow
Kenmore model # 110.62.972100 and Serial No. MMI 308776.
One time my dryer didn't produce heat and my clothes remain wet. After few hours when I turn on again it's worked properly! It was o.k for couple of days and than again it stopped producing heat. We tried after 2 days and again it's working but when we stopped and restart, it didn't work. What can be the cause?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Kenmore Electric Dryer Heating Problem
Most heat related problems with dryers are attributed to poor air flow. I would start there first in determining if you have a ventilation problem BEFORE replacing any components. If you don't, and you have a clog somewhere, you will end up with the same problem and repeated failed components. The following link gives some useful advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:
Pay particular attention the first major paragraph that discusses the ventilation. Follow the advice and attempt to run the dryer without the exhaust vent attached, first. If the dryer begins to heat, you may have gotten lucky and avoided any failed components. However, if the dryer still does not produce heat, you probably have blown a component in the heating circuit. More commonly, the thermal cut-out (TCO) blows. Make sure you check ALL heating circuit components before taking my word for it, just to be sure. Reminder: If the TCO is blown, it is highly recommended that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, these components are sold as a set.
Go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number as "110.62972100". Look under the "Bulkhead" heading for item number 47 (This is the TCO/thermostat set I am referring to). Refer to this drawing as a reference for your component identification (the Heating Element is listed as item 14). I hope this information helps you. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The following link will take you to a website where you can type in your information and it will give you a time frame of when your dryer may have been made. You will also need your serial number as well.
first make sure the dryer vent is unplugged. then make sure you are getting voltage to the heating element.if you are getting voltage to the element then the element will need to be replaced, assuming the vent isnt plugged
Your issue is as follows: "the dryer works but there is no heat to dry the clothes.
Based on the information provided above, I am unable to provide a positive solution to your issue.
Following this LINK, provides valuable D.I.Y. safety information on the make and model number of your appliance. In order to access your product information, you will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User's Manual.
Note: A volt-ohm meter is beneficial in performing electrical tests.
This information is for an electric, generic model dryer only!
My Solution is: If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Temperature Switch; make sure a positive heat selection has been made, if still no heat, then check these:
Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house: Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element: Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse: On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring: A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
/* Style Definitions */
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating
the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows
sometimes it is still not working properly.
If your dryer IS still heating, but your clothes still won't dry, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire exhaust duct run to ensure you have no kinks or clogs anywhere. The following link explains many of the problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. A dryer in a clogged state or having improper air flow will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to actually overheat. Eventually, this can lead to component failures and is the source of fire hazards.
If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
There are 2 possibilities for this problem. 1. The limit switch is out. The limit switch is located on the heating element on the back of the dryer. This is a small button type part. it will have 2 prongs on it for 2 wires that slide on for power. 2. The heating element is out. This will be on the back of the dryer and depending the model it should be a long metal piece that has metal elements inside of it to heat the dryer. or it could be a large round unit. these can be tested with an om meter.
The limit switch will be the cheapest to start with on replacing. If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to ask. I will need the make, model, and the serial number of the unit to help you further. the model and serial number can be found by opening the dryer door and looking by the hings. there should be a sticker with this information on it.
make sure lint screen and vents are clean. next shut off electric and check heat element for broken element. then get model # and serial # order and change thermocutoffs located on heater box and fanhousing ck these steps one by one
hello there: here is some troubleshooting ideas for you to help A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety
of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the
heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of
the problem. Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained
units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is
frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back
service panel to gain access to the elements. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty