Hello, I was using this machine and it stopped working. I checked the oil and gas and they are both fine. When I pull the cord to start the machine, it will not fire up. When I tilt the machine back and pull the cord it will run, however once I lower it into the right position it shuts off again. Can you help?
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Those sensors have no effect on spark. Did you replace the plug, if not remove it hold it against the engine, have someone pull cord, watch for spark. If you have spark then you have a fuel problem. If no spark then after replacing plug, then remove stop wire from magneto side. Pull cord an watch for spark. If no spark then remove housing an flywheel, measure gap between mag an flywheel. Check to make sure magnets are still on flywheel. Call some shop or check a service manual on gap setting. If no spark still you will need to replace the magneto. This is rare an its is more likely a plug that needs replacing. Toro snowblowers are nice machines, this is not a hard fix. Really to tackle this is starting with the plug.
You need to go over this machine thoroughly, disassemble carb and give it a full cleaning. Remove gas tank and clean thoroughly. Replace plug, change oil, new air filter the works! It should be fine after a little TLC, Good Luck and have fun!
I am not having any luck with crossing the number you passed. I really need just the number off the engine air shroud just above the spark plug. Having said that. I understand you have a fixed speed automatic choke Briggs and Stratton engine without a primer bulb.
To gain access to the carb diaphram it is not that hard. The carb and gas tank are removable with just 2 bolts after the air-cleaner is removed. One bolt with spacer is near the gas filler opening and takes a 1/2 inch socket to remove. The other bolt is on the front bracket and is a 3/8 head. Once you have the bolts out, pull gently and carb will slide off of the intake tube.
Then tip the bottom of the carb toward you (STOP note the linkage position) and then remove the linkage.
Tank and carb off....
NOTE: The diaphram may stick to either the tank or the base of the carb so be careful when separating carb from the gas tank. Remove the 5 screws holding the carb to the tank and lift straight up making sure the diaphrm is not stuck.
The diaphram is under the carb and will have a spring on it if yours has an automatic choke. Note which side of the diaphram the spring is on. On the side of the carb there will be a rectangular plate with ONE 1/4" head on it. Remove the plate. This is where the choke attaches to the diaphram. Before removing the diaphram inspect it for holes in places where is not supposed to
have holes. If there are no holes visible on the bottom of the diaphram remove the diaphram by disonnecting the linkage inside the side plate. Again inspect the top of the diaphram for holes. If you find any tears or holes take the diaphram to your nearest lawnmower parts supply and get a replacement. They
usually cost around $6.00
If your carb has a single fuel adjustment screw turn it closed until it just starts to snug up counting exact number of turns from the original position.
Remove the fuel adjustment screw. If you loosen it until it is almost removed the whole assy will pull out with pliers while screw is still installed.
(O-ring type mating area) Clean the hole and reinstall the fuel adjustment jet.
Turn it closed until snug then adjust to original position.
NO HOLES in Diaphram or before installing NEW diaphram. Check the fuel pick up tube for obstructions especially on the bottom screen.
You should be able to pass air though the tube orally. Noting the tube is free of obstructions install the diaphram by connecting the choke link on the side of the carb and install the side plate. Install the carb onto the gas tank and evenly tighten the mating screws. Then take the tank and carb assy to the engine and connect the carb linkage. Slide the carb onto the intake tube and make
sure the O-ring on the intake tube is inside the carb intake throat. Install the 2 mounting bolts for the tank and carb assy.
Install the air cleaner screw. Fill the gas tank all the way to the lip of the tank where the gas cap screws on. (This will ensure that the diaphram has gas in it) It should start within 2 or 3 pulls.
If it runs... your almost done.
Take the air cleaner foam and wash it with gas until clean. Then oil the filter with oil gently squeezing it to make sure oil is evenly distributed.
Once oil is evenly distributed SQUEEZE out all excess oil by squeezing the foam as tightly as you can. Then install the foam and air cleaner.
Drain all the old gas (if it's a small amount, you can throw it into your car's nearly-full gas tank even if it's mixed with oil.) add fresh gas. you may need to try to start it several times to give the new gas a chance to work it's way to the engine.
If this doesn't work, then try starting fluid (ether in a spray can) find the air intake and remove the filter sponge. Spray the starting fluid into the air intake and try to start it. If you don't have starting fluid, you can use WD-40.
DON'T SPRAY WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!
Even if the engine beigns to sputter out - just let it stop and then spray more ether before starting again.
If neither of these work, then you should replace the sprak plug. If the engine started with ether, but won't stay running, then you should check the fuel line or fuel filter for blockage.
Engines need 2 things to run. Fuel and spark. Pull the spark plug, re-connect it to the wire and hold the base of it near the motor. Like about 1/8" near. Pull the cord (you'll probably need a helper). See a spark? yes? Ok that eliminates that. Fuel is where the problem usually is. Is the fuel in it from previous seasons? Did you put stabilizer in it? Dump the fuel, put in a little fresh fuel and pull over and over until your fresh fuel can get into the carb. Still not popping? Your carb is likely clogged from the residue left from stale fuel. The easy way to deal with that is to replace it, but that can be $60 or more. The next easiest way is to get a carb kit and replace all the gaskets and parts it provides (that apply to your particular carb) while cleaning it along the way. The harder but cheapest way is to take it apart and clean it, trying to re-use all the parts. If you could do this you would not be posting here. If you are the put-in-gas-and-oil-and-pull-the-cord type, bring it to a shop.
I USED TO WORK AT A HARDWARE STORE AND A LOT OF PEOPLE ALWAYS HAD TROUBLE WITH 2 CYCLE ANYTHINGS(GAS & OIL MIX).IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC START MAKE A FRESH MIX OF GAS AND OIL TO SPECS BUT USE A LITTLE MORE OIL THAN INSTRUCTED(THIS WILL NOT HURT THE ENGINE).ADD THE GAS AND OIL MIX TO TANK. PUT CHOKE TO FULL, PRIME IT 5 OR 6 TIMES PLUG IN THE ELECTRIC START AND PRESS THE BUTTON AND HOLD IT DOWN 'TIL YOU HEAR THE ENGINE START TO REVOLVE.THIS MAKE TAKE A FEW TIMES BUT IT WORKED FOR ME.YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE BEING THAT THE ENGINE MAYBE SEIZED ANYWAY. GOOD LUCK !!