Question about Washing Machines

7 Answers

Hotpoint Washing Machine Repeating Rinse & Spin Cylce, no full spin unless rubber tube to pressure switch is blocked off

Hi, my machine will not complete the rinse & spin cycle, it appears to just keep repeating the cycle every time it should be going into a fast spin.

I have checked & cleaned pump and attaching hoses, tried different loads.

I have found if I disconnect the rubber tube from the pressure switch it spins OK.

I have blown down the tube and all seems clear (there is no resistance). II have also changed the pressure switch.

If left over night the first wash is OK, but after that it just keeps repeating the above cycle.

I have also checked the motor brushes which are fine.

Is there a vibration balance sensor somewhere that could prevent it from spinning?

I have noticed when I blocked the rubber tube to the pressure switch it reaches full spin speed, whereas previously before the above fault started it was not at full speed?

Help, please!

regards

Scott

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  • 4 more comments 
  • scootbog Oct 27, 2008

    Hi, Hotpoint WF321. 16 months old.

  • scootbog Oct 27, 2008

    Hotpoint WF321 Washing Machine

  • scootbog Oct 27, 2008

    Which solenoid and where is it located??

    regards

    Scott

  • scootbog Nov 05, 2008

    Hi reposting as problem not been solved or answered properly.



    The machine should be entering a spin cycle however water continues to
    enter the drum and drain, the spin will not advance because there is
    water in the drum still. When no power applied there is no water
    leaking through the water valve. The pressure switch has been
    replaced. Why is the machine sending a signal to the water valve
    solenoid when it should be closed? I understand solenoids are
    energized open, so where is the voltage coming from to open the water
    valve at the wrong time?



    The water fills the drum, pressure then activates the pressure switch
    to de-energise the water valve solenoid closing it and stopping water
    from entering the drum.



    If there was a leak in the rubber tube from the drum to pressure switch the drum would overfill.



    regards



    Scott







  • scootbog Nov 06, 2008

    Hi hose was already tested. Also if hose has split/pin hole machine would overfill.

    Machine is not overfilling, it is constantly filling with water when it should be entering spin mode.

    So because of this the machine will not spin.

    The water shut of valve solenoids are receiving voltage from somewhere .

    With reference to the rubber pipe from the drum to the pressure switch should I be able to blow down the pipe and **** also. Or should it be one way?




  • scootbog Nov 06, 2008

    Hi the hose was already tested. Also if the hose has a split/pin hole, the machine would overfill.

    Machine is not overfilling, it is constantly filling with water when it should be entering spin mode. (The drain pump is working while the machine is filling)

    So because of this the machine will not spin.

    The water shut of valve solenoids are receiving voltage from somewhere .

    With reference to the rubber pipe from the drum to the pressure switch should I be able to blow down the pipe and **** also. Or should it be one way?

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7 Answers

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  • Master
  • 899 Answers

You will need to replace the control board , sounds like its faulty in letting the power go , for that solenoid or the lid switch, timer, drive belt, transmission, or agitate/spin solenoid could be the cause here as well. Sometimes if the load is unbalanced or too heavy, the washer won't spin. Take some of the clothes out and try the spin cycle again with a lighter load.
if not then probably its stuck or not working at all

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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  • Master
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Hi Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.

Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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  • 728 Answers

Check the pressure switch and make sure it is connected correctly and that it is put in the right way. It will not let the washer preform its right cycle if it is faulty because you said that when you take the tube out, it works how it is supposed to.

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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  • Master
  • 958 Answers

Please do check the wires from the pressure switch to the ccu. manually trace the wires for continuity. and check the sockets for corrosion or loose connection.

it could also be a problem with loose connection.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Replace or adjust the hose that goes to the pressure switch.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

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I would guess that the solenoid to shift it into spin is binding or erratic. Thus opening the door gives switches it on and off like the timer but since it sometimes works, it sometimes works by cycling the door switch.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Oct 27, 2008




    washing machines have self-leveling rear legs. If this is true
    of your washer, tip the machine forward and set it back down firmly to set
    the rear legs. Then adjust the front legs until the washer is level. You
    still need adjust the front leveling legs up as far as possible.












    Front
    Load Washing Machine








    Top
    Load Washing Machine


















    To prevent your washer from becoming off balance, don't overload it or run
    a very small load, with just a few heavy items. Either case can cause your
    machine to go off balance.


    Weak floors
    also lead to dancing washing machines. If the floor is vibrating when the
    washer is spinning, the floor should be strengthened. To check your floor,
    set a half-full glass of water next to the washer and put it into a spin
    cycle. If the glass of water vibrates, the floor needs to be strengthened.
    A layer of �" fire-resistant plywood that spans underneath both the
    washer and dryer often does the trick, screw this down to the
    existing floor.



    If your washer slides because it sits on a slick floor, try putting
    specially made non-slip
    pads
    underneath the leveling legs.



  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 06, 2008




    A
    defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to
    shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If
    this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In
    time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need
    to replace the valve.




    Water-level switch

    A
    defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it
    can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch
    senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm
    device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the
    bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub
    increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the
    pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off
    the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can
    either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level
    switch.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 06, 2008

    The
    water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is
    usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between
    the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level
    in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases.
    When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch,
    shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle.
    If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut
    off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.


  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 06, 2008

    The drive
    motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For
    agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining,
    the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and
    continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace
    the entire motor.

    If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be
    too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly
    balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you
    may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®),
    or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable
    component.

    Alternatively,
    there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read
    the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section.
    Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive
    train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

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  • 155 Answers

Please tell the model number and the company details of the machine.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 15 more comments 
  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008

    check out the water level controls

    Water level controls -

    The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.

    Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008

    A couple of tips :

    ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.

    ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.

    ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008

    if the problem of slow fill

    Slow fill -

    A fill valve has screens built into it to prevent sediment from entering the fill valve. Sometimes these screens can get plugged and will need to be cleaned out with a old tooth brush. Just shut off the water, remove the hot and cold fill hoses and clean out the screens on the entrance of the fill valve. When ever possible, you should try not to remove the screens from inside the fill valve

    entrance. The screens are in the entrance of the fill valve. If the screens are just too clogged or if you have removed them, install new screen-washers in the fill hose end to prevent junk from getting inside the fill valve.If all attempts to clean the fill valve has not helped the fill pressure. Sometimes the fill valve can be damaged and this is why it won't fill as fast as it used to, you may have to replace the fill valve.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It doesn't work at all

    If your washer doesn't seem to work at all, check these:

    No power
    Lid switch




    No power

    Check to see whether power is getting to the washing machine. Is it plugged in? Has a fuse blown or is a circuit breaker tripped?





    Lid switch

    If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

    Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It won't drain

    If your washer won't drain, check these:

    It spins, but doesn't pump
    It doesn't spin or pump
    It pumps, but the water returns




    It spins, but doesn't pump

    If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

    To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

    Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

    If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It doesn't spin or pump

    If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It pumps, but the water returns

    If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:



    • If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.


    • If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008






    It doesn't spin

    If your washer won't spin, check these:

    It doesn't pump or spin
    It pumps, but doesn't spin
    It spins only with the lid closed




    It doesn't pump or spin

    If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:



    • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


    • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008






    It pumps, but doesn't spin

    If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:



    • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


    • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


    • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


    • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


    • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


    • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


    • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008






    It spins only with the lid closed

    For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.





    It doesn't agitate

    If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

    Lid switch
    Motor coupler
    Belts
    Clutch
    Drive motor
    Drive pulleys
    Transmission
    Agitator




    Lid switch

    If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.





    Motor coupler

    Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.





    Belts

    Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)





    Clutch

    If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.





    Drive motor

    Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.





    Drive pulleys

    The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    Transmission

    The transmission could have either of these problems:



    • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


    • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

    If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.





    Agitator

    The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It's noisy

    Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    It leaks

    Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time




    During fill only

    If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:



    • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


    • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.






    During drain and spin only

    A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.





    All the time

    If the washer leaks all the time, check these:



    • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


    • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


    • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008






    It's off balance

    If there's a loud thumping noise during the spin cycle, the load of clothes has probably gotten unbalanced. Open the lid, redistribute the clothes in the washer, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.





    There's no hot water

    Some washing machines allow hot water to enter only during certain cycles. Others intermittently allow hot and cold to enter, to temper the temperature of the water. Consult your owner's manual if you are unsure about whether the machine is acting abnormally.

    If you're sure the machine isn't working the way it used to--or should--try these tests:



    • Is the hot water turned on? If not, turn it on.


    • Is the washer getting cold water but no hot water? If so, check to see if the control panel settings are correct.


    • Is there hot water coming through the proper hose? If not, check to see if the screen inside the water-inlet valve is clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If it's clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, completely replace it.






    There's no cold water

    Some washing machines allow cold water to enter only during certain cycles. Others intermittently allow hot and cold to enter, to temper the temperature of the water. Consult your owner's manual if you are unsure about whether the machine is acting abnormally.

    If you're sure the machine is not working the way it used to--or should--check the following.



    • Is the cold water turned on? If not, turn it on.


    • Is the washer getting hot water but no cold water? If so, check to see if the control panel settings are correct.


    • Is there cold water coming through the proper hose? If not, check to see if the screen inside the water-inlet valve is clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If it's clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you need to replace the valve.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008






    It's slow to fill

    Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.





    There's no water at all

    If there's no water at all, make these checks:



    • Is there water getting to the machine?


    • Is the water-volume selector switch set properly and are the control panel buttons pressed in all the way?


    • If you have a Maytag® washer, is the fuse (if there is one) in the control panel at the lid-switch bracket blown?


    • Is there a faint buzzing or humming noise coming from the water-inlet valve? (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If you can't hear anything, the water-inlet valve may not be getting any power. If you can hear some noise and there's water present, you may need to completely replace the water-inlet valve.






    The clothes are wet after spinning

    When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

    Motor coupler
    Spin cycle
    Siphoning
    Water-inlet valve




    Motor coupler

    To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:



    • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


    • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.






    Spin cycle

    If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

    Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.





    Siphoning

    If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.





    Water-inlet valve

    Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008





    The cycle doesn't advance

    When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:



    • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


    • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.






    There's no delicate or regular spin or agitation

    If your washer doesn't spin or agitate on either the delicate or regular cycle, check these:

    Selector switch
    Clutch assembly
    Drive motor




    Selector switch

    If your washer has a selector switch on the control panel, make sure the button for your selection is pressed all the way in, or set properly.





    Clutch assembly

    Many GE®/Hotpoint® washers use a clutch and an automatic shift lever. This assembly is quite complicated. If there's a problem with it, you probably should contact a qualified appliance repair technician.





    Drive motor

    Many washing machines have multiple-speed drive motors. Though it's uncommon, the drive motor may work fine on one speed but not on another. If the drive motor has failed on one speed, you need to replace the entire motor.





    It's overfilling

    If your washer is overfilling, check these:

    Water-inlet valve
    Water-level switch




    Water-inlet valve

    A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.





    Water-level switch

    A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.





    It's underfilling

    The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.





    The water temperature is incorrect

    The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.

    If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

  • fixexpert Oct 27, 2008

    rate the solution if it helps or

    feel free for further assistance.

    keep updated.

    goodluck

    thanks.

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