Question about Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer
I have a kenmore 400 dryer that does not heat
I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:
**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.
With that being said....
1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.
2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.
3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.
4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.
Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.
Good luck, and I hope this helps!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a thermal fuse and or gas valve coils, and maybe an igniter all three are very simple and affordable to replace. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. Now, if this don't solve the problem you will need a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new, if it doesn't then you will need to check the igniter. The igniter is attached to the end of the burner assymbly by one screw and a simple two wire plug. Inspect for breakage, and replace if needed. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer wont heat up
Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.
1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
or bad solonoids on your gas vale
check your lint filter
and exhaust outside to be clear of cloggs with good airflow while running
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
if you remove the back you will see the heater box to your right,at the top of the box is the heater fuse,also the bottom half of the box is the heater coil,it come off just remove the 2 screws,if you have a meter you can test it if not take it off and look to see if you see a broken wire anywhere,your model number is inside the door-mike
Posted on Feb 07, 2010
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