Question about Logitech Z-340 Computer Speakers

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How to disassemble Logitech Z-340 sub-woofer

Anyone know how to disassemble the Logitech Z-340 sub-woofer. Apparently the speaker bezel, and then the speaker needs to be removed to get at the power transformer. What's the secret to removing the speaker bezel?

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  • Anonymous Jan 29, 2009

    ditto same question

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The speaker bezel can be removed in only two ways:

1) Somehow remove the grille in order to get a the screws which hold the bezel onto the cabinet. I tried to do this and couldn't get it to budge. Once I got the thing open I observed that Logitech used a LOT of glue to hold this thing together.

2) Drill holes THROUGH the grill above each of the 8 screws large enough so you can loosen the screws.

Once you get it open, you'll be shocked to discover what you thought was the subwoofer cone is actually A ROUND PIECE OF CARDBOARD fastened to the foam. The 4" driver is behind this fastened to a board halfway back pointing into the chamber containing the electronics.

You can get to the power transformer, but good luck removing it. The screws are nearly impossible to unfasten; more glue but more importantly incredibly awful access to the nut and screw (yes, a screw, not a bolt).

I wouldn't pay 5 bucks for this system. Luckily, I didn't.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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You just remove the grille by prying it out with a flat head screwdriver. In mine sub it wasn't glued. Then you unscrev those black screws visible through the grille.

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Want to use my current speakers with a new surround sound system. Current system is 5.1 channels, rated at 100w per channel @ 8. Ohms. New System is rated 145watts, 5.2 channels at 6 Ohms. Will b ok?


Hi Ronald.
8 Ohm speakers will work just fine as replacements for the
6 ohm speakers. When fitting speakers you need to consider
The power handling capability. The impedance and the frequencies
involved. Power handling is expressed in wattage ie 100W.
Unfortunately this can be expressed in rms, max or peak music. The rms value (root mean square) is the only really relevant figure as this is the continuose handling power at 1 KHz. The impedance
is the resistance that the amp sees but is not a dc resistance and
varies with frequency. The lower the impedance the more power
will be drawn from the amp. In the event of a short circuit across
the speaker the amp will try to deliver infinite power into an infinitly
small load in an infinitesimal amount of time and will self destruct.
Using an 8 Ohm speaker draws less power than a 6 Ohm speaker.
Connecting speakers in parallel; results in the impedance beingreduced. For example two 8 Ohm speakers in parallel will result
in a 4 Ohm impedance load but in series will be 16 Ohms.
Incidentally the the .1 (5.1) is the sub woofer which only has
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Connect your speakers and then power up the amp last
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All the very best from Vintie.





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We can provide one.
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IF YOU ARE NOT GETTING A LOUD POP WHEN THE MACHINE IS POWERED ON.......

1) Make sure that the wires on the terminals below are still connected to the screws. There is one ground and one each for left and right. The lower the tap the lower the (max) volume of the jukebox.If they are not connected there will be no sound.
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There is a jumpers on the terminal strip where the volume control connects. Make sure that these connections are correct and tight. Also make sure that the jumpers did not fall off.
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If you are getting the loud pop in the speakers when the power is turned on .....

Check the plug on the side of the mechanism, just below the back of the tone are.(looks like a little tube socket) Check to see that it is connected to the mech and the CORRECT PLACE on the amplifier. It mat be possible to have this end in the wrong place. bf77613e-82a3-4e37-b8fe-cc80f4d4dbcb.jpg

Check all all your connections against the pic.

I hope this was helpful.

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