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I overhaul this S92 briggs engine a month a go and it is burning oil it was buring oil before the ring gap of the new rings measure a lot better than the ring gap of the old rings?

I took this engine apart got a new set of rings from Brigg S. a set of gasket check the new rings in the cylinder bore the gap was about 0.005 gap .and it still using burn it dosen't leak oil so where is the oil going .for it to need oil .

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  • juancervante
    juancervante Feb 23, 2012

    I read a briggs repair manual that sat you didn't need to degalze the cylinder so i didn't the cylinder and install the piston and rings ,and put every parts back on the engine



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Deglazing the cylinder isn't required but helps the rings get their own good seal. Check or make sure you staggered the ring gaps on both the compression and oil scrapper rings and that one of the oil rings didn't fold over during installation and get between the piston and cylinder. If by burning oil you mean it's smoking a lot, are you sure it isn't the assembly grease or the oil that was already in the cylinder and muffler from the old rings. If all the parts are installed correctly, let it run a while to get up to operating temperature and see if the smoke clears up, if it's getting fresh oil from the crankcase you won't hurt it to run it long enough to get hot and burn all the old oil out of the muffler. If it continues to smoke, a light honing of the cylinder may be in order.

Posted on Feb 23, 2012


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3hp Briggs statton ring end gap? should you born aluminum cylinder?

Small engines are basically throw away items.
The cost of boring and repair could be better placed toward the cost of a new engine. As you tear into the engine, more and more stuff is worn out.
Unless it's a collectible or sentimental value, it just doesn't make economical sense.
Rule of thumb for ring end gap is .0035 per inch of bore.
Just FYI.

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.010-.012" minimum at the bottom of the bore
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02 ford 4.2 f150 blue smoke a lot just rebuil motor

did you hone the bores before fitting new rings ( old glazed bores will not allow new rings to seal properly)
did you space the ring gaps around the piston and not have them all line up ( if the ring gaps were not spaced around the piston , the oil will pass straight up the gap and be burnt in the combustion chamber --alternately the flame of combustion will get to the sump down the gap)
did you take care as to which way up you put the rings on the pistons ( there is a top etched on each ring and if this was not adhered to then the ring edge acts as a scraper and pumps the oil into the combustion chamber . also the compression pressure cannot get behind the ring to force it onto the bore wall
did you fit new bearings to the big ends ( old bearings will allow more oil onto the bore walls and this makes controlling the oil by the oil ring difficult)
did you fit the valve stem seals correctly( if they haven't been fitted correctly then the vacuum from the idling will suck oil past the valve stems
If you missed one or more in the rebuild then that is why you are burning oil

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Burning oil

Not really. If your piston rings are worn down and letting oil into the top of cylinder where it can be burned, only an engine overhaul with new rings will stop it. Lucas oil conditioner products, Marvel mystery oil, anything like that might help a little, but won't stop the oil burning. Start saving money for a rebuild or replacement engine. Good luck.

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I want to overhaul the briggs engine on my john deere s92 is it advice to deglaze the aluminum cylinder

Hello J, Yes you can deglaze the aluminum cylinder:: a few things you should know and do,on the rebuild or over hall, GET A BOOK with all of the specs.for your briggs engine, now cylinder honing,to hone you have to have a honer that fits on a drill and use trans fluid to lube while honing go up and down slowely to get the X pattern,once you have done this check for roundness and ring end gap according to the book,you may need over size rings,and be sure when you put back together to get the timing marks lined up, and why are you rebuilding the engine,hope this helps,,

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Fuel in crankcase

The fuel in the crank case is caused by bad rings or scratched/worn piston walls it the only way fuel can reach the crankcase unless you pour it in to the oil fill. The fix is to overhaul the engine. Thanks for using FixYa. Have a nice day. Jeff

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Blue smoke

Blue smoke is never a good thing....

Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with the white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer cars with fewer miles.
How did the engine oil get inside the cylinder in the first place? The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed. If too much oil leaks into the cylinder and fouls the spark plug, it will cause a misfire (engine miss) in that cylinder, and the spark plug will have to be replaced or cleaned of the oil. Using thicker weight engine oil or an oil additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.

your engine has worn valve guides, piston rings An engine that burns a lot of oil (more than a quart in 500 miles) is an engine that needs to be overhauled. Normal oil consumption should be a quart or less in 1500 miles. Most newer engines consume less than half a quart of oil between oil changes (every 3000 miles). So if your engine is burning oil, it's essentially worn out and needs to be repaired.
Because the cost of overhauling or replacing an engine often exceeds the value of an older car or truck, many people will just keep on driving a "mosquito fogger" in spite of the blue clouds of smoke it leaves behind. Never mind the pollution it causes, oil is cheaper than a new or rebuilt engine they reason. That philosophy may be okay if you live out in the sticks somewhere. But in urban areas that require periodic vehicle emissions testing, an engine that's burning oil usually won't pass the test because of excessive hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. You may get by on a waiver after you've spent some money (in vain) on a tune-up, but the fact remains you're still a polluter.
An engine that burns a lot of oil will also eventually foul the spark plugs. Thick, black oily deposits build up on the plugs until they cease to fire. Then the engine misfires and loses power. Cleaning or changing the plugs may temporarily solve the problem, but sooner or later they'll foul out again.
Forget about "miracle" oil additives or pills that claim to stop oil burning. They don't. Better to save your money and put it towards a valve job and new set of rings.

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