I overhaul this S92 briggs engine a month a go and it is burning oil it was buring oil before the ring gap of the new rings measure a lot better than the ring gap of the old rings?

You describe the situation as a heavy blowby. In the usually accepted meaning of the term blowby relating to an engine, means piston blowby and is recognised by a large amount of whitish vapour being expelled through the crankcase breather, dipstick tube and the oil filler cap if removed. This usually indicates the excessive wear of cylinder bores, pistons and piston rings that are no longer capable of sealing and allow combustion gas to blowby.

If the vapour puffs in sympathy with the engine speed it suggests stuck or broken piston rings confined to a single cylinder or a damaged piston.

It is difficult to understand how this would happen with a newly overhauled engine that surely must have been rebored and had new pistons fitted in order to qualify as overhauled. I can possibly advise you further if you post details of the overhaul in the comments section.

Not unrelated but perhaps surplus information just now - new cast iron piston rings take 500 miles to bed in to new properly honed bores while steel rings take 1000 miles. It is important to complete those miles with the engine filled with a base or low grade engine oil or proper running-in oil. Filling a newly overhauled engine with a modern high-spec oil can mean the piston rings will never bed in and forever afterwards the engine ios likely to smoke and consume a lot of oil.

Small engines are basically throw away items.
The cost of boring and repair could be better placed toward the cost of a new engine. As you tear into the engine, more and more stuff is worn out.
Unless it's a collectible or sentimental value, it just doesn't make economical sense.
Rule of thumb for ring end gap is .0035 per inch of bore.
Just FYI.

.010-.012" minimum at the bottom of the bore
max gap is .025" at the bottom of the bore with worn rings
rule of thumb measurement is .003" per inch of bore so a 3" would be no less than .009" gap for rings
air cooled engines need a bigger gap so work on the .012" measurement

Not really. If your piston rings are worn down and letting oil into the top of cylinder where it can be burned, only an engine overhaul with new rings will stop it. Lucas oil conditioner products, Marvel mystery oil, anything like that might help a little, but won't stop the oil burning. Start saving money for a rebuild or replacement engine. Good luck.

Hello J, Yes you can deglaze the aluminum cylinder:: a few things you should know and do,on the rebuild or over hall, GET A BOOK with all of the specs.for your briggs engine, now cylinder honing,to hone you have to have a honer that fits on a drill and use trans fluid to lube while honing go up and down slowely to get the X pattern,once you have done this check for roundness and ring end gap according to the book,you may need over size rings,and be sure when you put back together to get the timing marks lined up, and why are you rebuilding the engine,hope this helps,,

Did you have the head reworked with the motor cause it sounds like the valve seals are gone and letting oil leak back down.

Oil rings? Maybe is the best way to start.So pull out the head and check if any oil comes up when pull to start.

The fuel in the crank case is caused by bad rings or scratched/worn piston walls it the only way fuel can reach the crankcase unless you pour it in to the oil fill. The fix is to overhaul the engine. Thanks for using FixYa. Have a nice day. Jeff

Blue smoke is never a good thing....

Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with the white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer cars with fewer miles.
How did the engine oil get inside the cylinder in the first place? The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed. If too much oil leaks into the cylinder and fouls the spark plug, it will cause a misfire (engine miss) in that cylinder, and the spark plug will have to be replaced or cleaned of the oil. Using thicker weight engine oil or an oil additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.

your engine has worn valve guides, piston rings An engine that burns a lot of oil (more than a quart in 500 miles) is an engine that needs to be overhauled. Normal oil consumption should be a quart or less in 1500 miles. Most newer engines consume less than half a quart of oil between oil changes (every 3000 miles). So if your engine is burning oil, it's essentially worn out and needs to be repaired.
Because the cost of overhauling or replacing an engine often exceeds the value of an older car or truck, many people will just keep on driving a "mosquito fogger" in spite of the blue clouds of smoke it leaves behind. Never mind the pollution it causes, oil is cheaper than a new or rebuilt engine they reason. That philosophy may be okay if you live out in the sticks somewhere. But in urban areas that require periodic vehicle emissions testing, an engine that's burning oil usually won't pass the test because of excessive hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. You may get by on a waiver after you've spent some money (in vain) on a tune-up, but the fact remains you're still a polluter.
An engine that burns a lot of oil will also eventually foul the spark plugs. Thick, black oily deposits build up on the plugs until they cease to fire. Then the engine misfires and loses power. Cleaning or changing the plugs may temporarily solve the problem, but sooner or later they'll foul out again.
Forget about "miracle" oil additives or pills that claim to stop oil burning. They don't. Better to save your money and put it towards a valve job and new set of rings.

1) CHECK THE OIL LEVEL IF IT IS OVER FULL REMOVE SOME OIL TO THE FULL MARK
2) IF YOU MOW ON HILL KEEP THE CARB ON THE DOWN SIDE OF THE HILL
3) WORST CASE RINGS OR VALVE SEALS