Question about Refrigerators
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
YOU MAY HAVE A BAD LIGHT BULB, SOCKET OR LIGHT SWITCH. TRY WIGGLING THE SWITCH TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY CHANGE IN THE BULB INTENSITY. IF NO CHANGE, TRY REPLACING THE LIGHT BULB. IF NO CHANGE, THE SOCKET NEEDS REPLACED.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
Empty it out and get behind the panel to the cooling coil section. The defrost heater is likely bad -or the defrost relay or the defrost timer. You will need a cheap VOM
Posted on May 06, 2009
In short no as long as you get the correct seal type from a spares shop, or Whirlpool. Just make sure that it is straight and there are NO gaps or splits in it when you refit it. Usually these will come pre cut to size for the particular model of FF but you can also buy seal strip on a reel from many spares shops. Also when you have removed the old seal make sure that you use a degreasing cleaner to clean around where the old seal was located and make sure the area is dry before fitting the new one.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
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Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
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