Question about LG LRFD21855 Stainless Steel French Door Refrigerator

3 Answers

Warm Water out of water dispenser

When I get water from the door it is warm, I get about 1/2 a glass out of warm water, then is it cold for 1/2 a glass, then warm again. Please help we want cold water.

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  • Anonymous Jul 17, 2008

    I have the same problem with my new fridge.

  • Anonymous Jul 22, 2008

    I have the same problem how do I go about fixing it??

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3 Answers

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  • Expert
  • 237 Answers

Usually the coolness comes from a large coil of plastic tubing in the refer compartment that stores the water. Check that the refer compartment is cool enough. Also see if running a large glass or two becomes cool again and stays cool for a while. Usually the very first 1/2 glass may be warm until the "cool" water that is stored in the coil of tubing finally makes its way to the dispensor.

Posted on Nov 09, 2006

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Try connecting it up too the cold tap!!!

Posted on Feb 07, 2008

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I just got a side by side fridge with the house we bought and I have noticed the same thing. The water cable runs under the fridge before it enters the door, and this is the same place the warm air from the cooling coils blows out so it warms the water in the tube. Has anyone found a way to reroute the water tube?

Posted on Jul 12, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 489 Answers

SOURCE: I have an LG LSC26905TT side by side fridge

When the filter freezes up, the outside casing may have cracked and will leak water when you dispense water through the door.  You will need to have the filter replaced and that should take care of the problem.  But the filter should never have frozen in the 1st place.  You will need to call a qualified LG technician to see what's going on inside the refrigerator.

Posted on May 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: water/ice dispenser sticking on

We had a problem with the water/ice dispenser on our 5-year-old LG SxS Refrigerator (LRSC 26930TT). In a panic to stop the water flow, the rubber activator boot was pulled off. The dispenser stopped once the button attached to the back of the boot was removed. Nothing was physically broken (i.e., parts intact) but the challenge was to get things (especially the boot) back in place. The key for me was to use patience: researched Internet for pointers (not too helpful), looked for schematics (even less fruitful) and exhaustively examined the panel on refrigerator (to help reverse engineer). Okay, here’s how I disassembled and reassembled without breaking any tabs or other pieces. Assuming your unit is similar, the panel is on the freezer door on the left side. You can lock the dispenser (using panel button) to preclude undesired water/ice while working. Note: the outer bezel (edge of panel) is secured by screws and should not be messed with. The main panel has tabs on all four sides. I used three screwdrivers (small to average in size) to pry the panel off. Pry the main panel working through the seam between the bezel and panel. Work your way around starting from the lower left or upper left corner. Each side of the panel has 3 or 4 tabs. Methodically work your way around using moderate force to pop the tabs loose. Once the panel is loose, you’ll need to disconnect the electrical connector at the upper left. The plug comes off and reattaches easily…don’t pull on the wires, use the plastic connector itself. Wiggle the panel free. Now you can get to the back of the boot retention bezel…the ultimate goal. Carefully push the bezel’s securing tabs (x3) through the panel and reattach the rubber boot. I used needle nose pliers to carefully pull each rubber nib through their applicable hole on the bezel. Now leave the boot/bezel assembly to the side—it’s the last step to reassembly. Note how the main panel tabs fit into their receiving slots/flanges. Reattach the electrical connector, snaps right on, and maneuver center of panel into recessed area, around ice chute/water nozzle. Slide the right and bottom sides on first—flanges, not slots for tabs—then align remainder of panel. Using moderate force, pop (punch) the remaining tabs back into their respective slots. The main panel will seat over the bezel. Now align and snap boot/bezel back into place. Finis! (No guarantees, but this procedure worked like a charm for me.)

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: The water will not dispense,

The inlet water valve solenoid has failed. The remedy is to replace the inlet water valve itself. This particular inlet water valve has 3 solenoids on it. You can see the inlet water valve as item 619A this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5520906&diagram_id=28703137#d28703137

If your good with a meter... unplug the unit. and slide each of the connectors of the solenoid bak just far enough to check the resistance of the solenoids. They all should have similar resistance. I am pretty sure one of your solenoids had a bad coil.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on May 14, 2011

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If this is a new hook-up please be sure that your water line is connected to the cold plumbing on the house and not the hot.
IF it is on the hot the fridge is cooling it down to warm.

Please let me know if this helps you.

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Water despenser does not work


OK EVERYONE...

HERE IS YOUR SOLUTION FOR WATER AND ICE DISPENSERS ON GE UNITS NOT WORKING BECAUSE OF FROZEN LINES.

GET A HAIR DRYER...

USE THE HAIRDRYER TO WARM UP THE LINE THAT STARTS AT THE BOTTOM LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE FREEZER DOOR.

WARM UP EVERYTHING ALL THE WAY UP THE SIDE UP TO THE WATER DISPENSER.

WARM UP THE TUBE WHERE THE WATER COMES OUT.
(BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUSH THE WATER DISPENSER SWITCH...COMMON SENSE)

KEEP WARMING UP THE DOOR AND TESTING THE SWITCH UNTIL YOU GET WATER...

IT TOOK ME ABOUT 20 MINUTES...IT MAY TAKE LONGER DEPENDING ON HOW BAD THE LINE IS FROZEN.

I HOPE THIS HELPS...

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