Question about Kenwood KAC-9152D Car Audio Amplifier

2 Answers

Short In System.

Ok so i have this kenwood and a 1 farad cap hooked up to it and it keeps overheating. It seems i ahve a short in the system because when the sub hits i can see a lil electric shock going from the case to the screws where I screwed the amp down. So im pretty sure the case is getting power when it shouldnt and its causing overheating. Can someone please explain how to fix this short?

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  • Megusti Shikmar Aug 26, 2006

    I have a 4 gauge grown wire with a 4 gauge loop connector connected to the chassis of the car by a big bolt. Also ive been running it for 4 months and the head hasnt blown. Thank you for the quick reply and if theres anything else you can think of please let me know.

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Obviously you are using the mouning screws as the power ground connection. Disconnect mounting screws from the case.be sure a short heavy gage wire is connected from the ground of the terminal strip to the car body. clean bare metal only with a star washer. If the connections are not good the terminal strip will over heat and melt.This is common.measure with a DVM the case of the amp to the car body.disconnect the input jacks. turn on the system. The voltmeter should read 0 volts. I ou have any other reading or the amp won't turn on with the input jacks removed you hve an open power ground on the circuit board. If the power ground is open well the voltge wil find the next available way to get to ground. Usually will burn out sigal grouns in head unit and amp. Take out the board and look at the trace connectedto the terminal ground. Jumper and resolder it.

Posted on Sep 08, 2007

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Sounds to me like you have a bad ground. Usually the amplifiers case is ground and you should see no spark. But if the ground is bad. When the downbeat hits the current draw can go up by multiples. The ground is dirty or too small the amplifier tries to draw it elsewhere. So even though you have a cap. You would be running low voltage under load. causing the switchmode power supply in the amplifier to work harder to keep up the rail voltage in the amplifier. The transistors switch faster. The faster they switch the more heat they create. And your amplifier gets hot. The only other thing is if the toryoid coil in the amp is shorting. causing high voltage to case. But this will generally burn out the head unit in the vehicle unless you have a ground loop isolater. To determine check to see if there is unusual voltage at the RCA's.

Posted on Aug 25, 2006

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: kenwood 350 w-2 amp wiring

you can simply take the input and connect it in parallel to the input of the second amplifier. The output of one amp will go to one speaker, and the output of the other amp will go to the other speaker.

The inputs of amplifiers are "high impedance" so putting more than one in parallel won't put any strain on the radio circuit.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 27, 2008

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SOURCE: power from the kenwood 9103D to the Kicker comp 15's is on n off

Most times I hear of people turning up the volume on a head unit and cutting off on the amp it tends to be wired to a speaker with the wrong impedance. I googled kicker comp and got tons of different models, not to mention almost all of them were 250 watt rms. That amp is 900 watt RMS at 2 ohms. If you only have 1 woofer, you can't possibly wire it wrong being all the subs I've seen in the results were 4 ohm. If you are using just one though, you should get a larger speaker, both 2 ohms and 1000 watt rms to prevent distortion. I'm afraid I can't answer your post without further information on the sub you are using.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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SOURCE: KAC-9152D AMP TURNS OFF AFTER 2-3 MINS.

i have the same amp running 2 type r 12". It cuts out also. I put 0 gauge power wire and a capacitor and it still does the same thing. I had to buy 2 and run each sub independenty at 4 ohm.You can run that amp all day long, full volume at 4 ohm. But is hates running large load at 2 ohm.

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Power Cap or Deep Cycle Battery?


your amplifier has the following specs:

Output Power at 12V:
1 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 400W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
Output Power at 14.4V:
1 x 300W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 600W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)

a .5 farad cap should work fine for 12v applications, a .75 will work fine for 14.4v applications. If you plan on upgrading the stereo system in the future, you should probably just pick up a 1 farad now and save trouble later.

when mounting the cap, mount it as close to the sub as possible. i recommended a deep cycle battery in an earlier solution due to the power handling requirements for the amp and speaker combo, any time you are working on a competition or semi-competition setup, you will want to isolate your audio system as much as possible from your vehicle's main electronics. i normally use a deep cycle battery if it's going to be a comp/street combo as you can sit at the lake and jam all night without killing your main battery. for comp only use, i stick to optima batteries, they seem to work well and can dump loads of amperage pretty quick.

if you go the dual battery route, you will want to buy a battery isolator to make sure the two batteries are independent of each other.

hope this helps,
trin

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