Question about Heartland Metro 3535RWLP3PR Dual Fuel Range

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SC on heartland stove and oven won't shut off

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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heavymetal77
  • 721 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have had the

www.heartlandapp.com/GetFile.ashx?idFile=20 That's a link to the service manual

Do you smell gas? I've seen spider egg sacks on gas grills cause this. Cloggs the ports & not enough gas comes out. But this unit has alot more to it than a grill. The ignitor must be spaced properly to achieve the proper spark. You need about an eighth in. gap to get the right arc. The regulator may not be letting the proper pressure out. too much & no light, too little same deal. Some disassembly maybe needed to clean the ports & tubes out if they are blocked. I googled this model & many have similar issues. Other concerns could be, is it getting enough air under the unit? Amazing they bill you $300 & not fix it or provide a decent solution!

Posted on Apr 30, 2011

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SOURCE: Hi, I have had the

Hi, well you have got yourself a nasty little problem. however it may be resolvable. See it sounds as though you may have a "Jet" or "pressure" problem.

A Gas appliance is a fairly simple device, the gas enters, and is usually dropped in pressure, and then via a Valve, is fed to an outlet port, that has a "Jet" in it, (a small insert with a tiny hole through it, bigger hole more gas) So, now the "Igniter" is a Pizeo-electric element, and this produces a spark, to light the gas.

Now we also have "Protection" circuitry that monitors certain parameters, and will shut down the stove if any of those parameters are activated.

Also we have a "Main Controller" that administrates the stoves activities, and work in conjunction with our "protection" circuits.


So as you can see there is little that can go wrong... if we suspect Gas, then it maybe blocked jets, blocked gas pipe, or low pressure. If we suspect igniter, then obviously, that's where the problem is, either it's stopped working, the electrical connection isn't correct/broken.


Now the fact you can "Hear" the "Sparking" indicates that the igniter must be working, no doubt, you can also "See" the blue spark as well. If so this then eliminates the igniter, as they are a Go-No-Go device, and yours it seems is OK.

That leaves us with Gas, perhaps you have a bad regulator? perhaps you have a Blocked jet? perhaps you have a pipe blockage? Perhaps you have bad pressure?

Most often it is simply a clogged jet nozzle, they can be cleaned out with thin wire, Fuse wire is ideal. As can most pipes, it is seldom those though, The regulators and any valves can often be suspect, the diaphragm causes the problems here, and valves can stick etc..

But in saying all that it could also be a main controller "Fault" as this too can give similar symptoms, one really has to work through the troubleshooting steps, and isolate the exact cause, by process of elimination.

Below is a user manual for you. I searched for a service manual, however was unable to find one, this is a "Must Have" if one wants to service anything. Perhaps if you contact an agent or similar you maybe able to procure a manual? If you wish to DIY then you really do need one.



www.heartlandapp.com/GetFile.ashx?idFile=20


With Gas though, you really must be careful, as you must understand. This is why, in reality, professionally, I must advise you to use a professional serviceman, just to be safe.

Also one must at some point come to the idea of replacement, what with spending $300 already, and still it hasn't been resolved, and now there is a prospect of more monies having to be outlaid, perhaps even the same amount again, to my mind, I would be thinking about putting any further monies towards a NEW unit, with a full warranty?

Further, to this end, a recent Swedish study, has revealed that an repaired item, any repaired item, will "Fault" again within the next 12 - 18 months regardless. This is due, to the fact that "Other" components are "Stressed" by the initial "Fault", and this, or a repeat of the old fault, causes a failure later on. Food for thought?

Posted on Apr 30, 2011

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