Question about Leviton 003-1755-W Three Rocker Switches

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WHY WON'T WHY WON'T MY GU24 LIGHT BULBS WORK? I AM USING THE EXISTING ON OFF SWITCH FROM THE BATH ROOM. I CONNECTED THE WHITE WIRE FROM THE SWITCH TO ALL THE WHITE WIRES ON THE FAN UNIT. I HOO

I AM USING THE EXISTING ON OFF SWITCH FROM THE BATH ROOM. I CONNECTED THE WHITE WIRE FROM THE SWITCH TO ALL THE WHITE WIRES ON THE FAN UNIT. I HOOKED THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE SWITCH TO THE BLUE,RED AND BLACK WIRES ON THE FAN UNIT. THE FAN WORKS AND THE NIGHT LITE WORKS BUT NOT THE 2 18 WATT GU24'S.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: I need to wire a

Can you tell me where the outgoing wires are going to. Bare wire is ground goes in green color screw, white wire is neutral and goes in silver color screw, black wire is hot or live and goes in gold color screw. It is difficult to help you with little information. how do you know what is incoming and outgoing.

Posted on Mar 15, 2010

SOURCE: I have a Leviton 5634

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

SOURCE: I am hooking up a

1) Look at screw color.
New device has brass screws on one side, and 1 silver screw for each switch located on other side of device.
Hot wire goes to brass screw.
Wire to fan goes to one silver screw
Wire to light goes to another silver screw.
Wire to heater goes to another silver screw.

If you do not have a wire for each individual Load, then you will have to add wiring.

2) Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.
Hot wire connects to brass-colored screw.
If any wires on old switch was connected to same Hot wire, then also connect that wire to brass-colored screws.

Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire will NOT connect to this switching device.
Next, connect one of the remaining wires to a silver screw.
Turn power ON.
Flip switch to see what Load that wire controls.
By process of elimination, add wires to each silver screw and test each by flipping switch.
Breaker will trip if you connect Neutral to silver screw.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on circuit.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

SOURCE: My Leviton 6260M is wired

Countdown timers are made to work with bath fans.
Leviton countdown timers are stout product with 1HP rating.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html#6200

It sounds like timer is bad.
Wiring sounds good. Make sure you don't have Load and Line wires reversed. Try reversing Load-Line wires and see what happens.
Another thing that affects electronic timers is line noise/interference. If replacement timer does same thing, then noise is suspect. Try timer on another circuit without fan. Try another brand timer. Update to newer LTB60 Leviton timer. Use cheap circuit tester from home center to check outlet on same circuit.

Posted on Apr 08, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks, the timer was N.G. (no good). A different timer works just fine with the same wiring set-up. Those were all great suggestions! "

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1 Answer

Model 100HFL...with the light switched on I turn on the exhaust fan and the light dims a bit and the exhaust fan works. with the light switched on I turn on the heater and the light goes completely dark. ...


I'm not sure what is going on without full and complete description of wiring and switches:
Add a comment with exact information for possible help.
Specs say 20 amp circuit is needed: so 20 amp circuit breaker + 12 gauge wire are required.
Heater uses 1500 watts, so it pulls a lot of power if same circuit breaker is used for several other rooms and a TV etc. Turn off everything else and see if problem persists.
Sell sheet for product says: Energy efficient lighting - uses one 27-watt (max.) high efficiency GU24 based fluorescent lamp.
Turn off power, and disconnect ground wire. Turn power back on and switch on the heater-lite and see if there is a fault to ground.
Use a different switch.

Aug 11, 2011 | Broan-NuTone Broan...

1 Answer

I want to install two light fixtures in a bath room, and I am going to replace the two standard recepticals with two plugs with a combination switch that will control the light fixture, and one receptical...


If you have expierience with wiring I will help you but, this is kind of involved and I want to make sure you're not going to hurt yourself. You will have to have a meter to do this and I'd like you to explain which box you want to use for the switch leg and, how will you get the switch leg to the box.
Let me know at "add a comment".
Dave
Also, are you replacing both recepticles and are they GFI?

May 14, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

I have a Cooper Triple Single Pole Switch. I want to connect my bath light and fan combo unit and a separate light above my mirror. If I plug the HOT wire to the single black screw, that leaves me with 4...


The information is a bit sketchy, and you can add a comment with more information.

1) You have a triple switch with dark screw
(s) on one side of device.
You know that Hot attaches to dark screw.
On opposite side of switch are 3 screws.
1 screw is for wire going to bath fan.
1 screw is for wire going to bath light.
1 screw is for wire going to separate light above mirror.
If you do not have a separate wire running to each Load, then you need to add a wire.

2) If I understand correctly, your wall box contains several cables
Each cable has a black and white wire.
Ground wires are twisted together and connected to green screw, and are not discussed.

3) Cable1 black and white are Hot and Neutral from breaker box.
Are you sure?
Test each wire in box to bare ground to find hot wire.
Test hot wire to each wire to find neutral wire.
If power comes from junction box on ceiling, wall box might not have neutral wire.
If neutral wire was used to complete circuits for previous switch, then it is used the same for new switch. That's where the information is sketchy.

You have 4 white wires
1 white goes to each load
1 white is neutral
Where are the black wires associated with these white wires?
Add a comment and say how many cables and where each wire was connected before.

Here's how to start.
Connect Hot to dark screw.
One at a time, connect each white to screw on other side of switch.
Turn on power and flip the switch.
If load turns ON, then that wire is correct.
If load does not turn ON, then leave switch ON. Test each of the other white wires to bare ground to see if this wire should connect to neutral. Then connect that wire to neutral and test switch again.

Nov 16, 2010 | Cooper Wiring Devices Triple Deco Single...

1 Answer

Wiring comination 2 switch, with exisiting light to new bath fan


Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.




Mar 29, 2010 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

1 Answer

I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath light/fan combo and then onto a vanity light. Basics: wires from ceiling light/fan: black, red, white, ground. Wires to vanity light: black, white,...


remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Feb 22, 2010 | Leviton 003-1755-W Three Rocker Switches

1 Answer

I have a trimatron dimmer which has a black, red, green and another red wire labeled 3 way. My box has two black , white, red and groud wire. this room has two seperate light switches that control the...


When you take the existing switch out of the wall, the existing switch will have one black screw and two gold screws. The wire that is connected to the black screw of the existing switch (probably on of the black wires from the box) connects to the black wire on the new dimmer. The other two wires (one black and one red from the box) that are connected to the two gold screws on the existing switch will connect to the two red wires on the new dimmer. Basically, wire from black screw goes to new black wire and wires from gold screws go to new red wires.

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2 Answers

LED light too dim, is there a brigher LED kit?


You need these parts:
- Low profile GU24 socket (Maxlite MLGSIIB)
- GU24 CFL bulb (Progress Lighting MLS13GUSWW6)
- Threaded pipe fitting, nut, washer
- 2 wire nuts

Here is how to fix it for a few bucks. You need a low-profile GU24 socket (Maxlite MLGSIIB), which is readily available in large mail order channels. You also need a GU24 compact fluorescent bulb (Progress Lighting MLS13GUSWW6) that is available through Home Depot mail order or other internet retailers. To my knowledge, these are the only parts that fit into the low-profile glass.
You'll also need a threaded pipe fitting and a proper size nut for attaching the GU24 base to the holder, both readily available at the ceiling fan section in HD. You'll also need a washer underneath the nut to hold the socket in place. Put your MacGyver skills to work.
To change the parts, uninstall the light fixture by unscrewing the glass, then removing three screws that hold the LED plate in place. Disconnect the LED wire connection and a larger white connection behind it. Then remove three more screws that holds the rest of the light fixture up and remove it from the fan.
Once on the desk, remove the back plate wire cover (3 screws) so you have access to the wires. Unscrew and remove the rectangular box (120v-12v converter), you won't be needing it any longer. Cut the black and white wires close to the module - you'll be attaching the GU24 socket wires to those wires.
Remove the LED circuit board from the plate by pinching the plastic standoffs and then pulling them out. Install the GU socket to the larger hole at the center of the plate using a pipe fitting, washer and a nut. Notice that it fits perfectly - it was probably originally designed to use this socket! You may need a washer that is the appropriate size to hold the socket in place. I also used a piece of bent paperclip underneath the washer to hold everything tight.
Remove the white thermal sleeve from the LED module wiring and insert it over the GU24 socket wires just like it was with the LED wire. This is to prevent heat damage to the wires when they touch the metal edges. Using smaller wire nuts, connect the black and white wires to the wires you cut off earlier when removing the 12v module.
Put everything back together, install the light bulb, and enjoy a much brighter light from this beautiful ceiling fan.

Jul 11, 2009 | Hampton Bay Dryers

4 Answers

Hunter Fan # 20723 The Westminster - lights delayed when turn on


Here is the answer I received from Hunter Technical Support.

"The light fixtures are manufactured with a limiter that prevents a higher than recommended wattage bulb from working. The limiter causes the slight delay even when the correct bulbs are is in use."

Pretty annoying if you ask me.

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1 Answer

Broan bath fan light


probably you cross the wire, read the manual, check the wire first.

connect all the white wires together, connect the black wire from the hot source to the one side of the switch and connect another side to the light, this is for the light. and do the same for the fan.

the factory use either red or the black for hot,white for the neutral and green for the ground.

I hope this can help you.

Frank

Jul 02, 2008 | Broan-NuTone Designer 721 Ceiling Fan

1 Answer

Bought a monte carlo ceiling fan. removed old fan and found 3 white and 3 black wires, plus grounds. Cannot figure out how to connect the unit up. breaker controls all ceiling lights in master bath,2nd...


Try this:

* All 3 black together, with black and blue from fan
* All 3 white together, with white from fan
* All grounds (earths) together, with all greens from fan


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