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Radiant flame sensor

There is not heat when drying a load.

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No Heat- have replaced thermal cut off, thermal fuse and the heating element with no success. Any idea what else I should check?


  • Thermal Fuse,Timer, Temperature Sensor, Coils, Gas Control Valve, Radiant Flame Sensor, Igniter, Cycling Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Heating Element!
  • The things listed above can all cause no heat in drying if they are not working, or working correctly!

Mar 02, 2016 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have replaced radiant flame sensor, high limit thermostar, cycling thermostat, coil kit, and blower wheel on maytag dryer ldg9206aae, and still it takes forever to dry and is not hot enough.


if the flame is lighting like it should and you changed out all those parts did you clean out the lint filter duct and clean out the vent line?try removing the vent line from the back of the dryer and run it,if the flame stays on longer and it heats you have a blocked vent line,if the air can't move and that's all a dryer does the clothes can't dry

Apr 10, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite He3 gas dryer (110-92832100) not heating. Igniter glows red for a min or so, drum spins, hear a loud 'buzzing' noise....


The problem could be flame radiant sensor or in most cases the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves. The radiant sensor must be aligned perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils,
one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the radiant sensor is aligned with igniter and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. The buzzing sound is coming from the coils trying to operate the valves. Replacing both coils is the simple and only viable solution.

Jul 18, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a 7yo Kenmore Elite gas dryer w/no heat. I tested all the possible culprits with my ohmmeter. I found the ignitor was not glowing so I replaced it. Now it glows but I still have no heat


The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

Jun 17, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

I have a model 110.92832100 Kenmore Elite gas dryer that has stopped drying. i found a penny welded onto the Thermal fuse, so I replaced it and while I was in there I replaced the thermostat. When the...


Since you are already this far you have some knowledge of how you dryer works. What is wrong now is the heat sensor that picks up that the pilot is on. The pilot should burn at a steady flame when you turn the dryer on to heat this in turn heats a probe next to the piolit this is a type of heat sensor. When the probe or heat sensor senses heat it tells the gas valve that its okay to turn on. Have a great day and hope this helps.

Aug 19, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Components:

Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

Operation:

At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

Feb 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My maytag autodry dyer mdg6200aww begins by heating up but the gas flame goes out after a minute or two.I checked for continuity on both the thermal fuse and radiant sensor and both checked out ok.


Continuity on the radiant sensor should be "closed" at startup, but it must also open after it has sensed the heat from the ignitor or flame.

The ignitor could be cracked and opening up after it heats up for awhile, also it's connectors might be loose/oxidized, clean them and reconnect after checking the ignitor.

Last thing to check is continuity on the gas valve coils. These two frequently go bad, especially the one with two contacts rather than three.

The set of two coils is about $10,00 on ebay. buy them and install. Even if you don't need them now, you will eventually need them. They are nearly a consumable item.

Aug 02, 2009 | Maytag MDG7600AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Replaced igniter and thermal fuse and still no glow from igniter and no heat


could be that you have a bad radiant sensor. or timer? unplug the unit and check continuity across the radiant sensor, you should have continuity. the radiant sensor is attached to the left side of the flame tube. make sure you remove one of the terminals first from it to get a more accurate reading. if that is good you should have one more fuse inside of there it is usually small and round with 2 wires going to it and it is also usually attached to the flame tube. you should have continuity if not this would be your problem. let me know if you have any other questions.

Jun 10, 2009 | Kenmore 74602 Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore cloths dryer will not heat up


Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Oct 18, 2008 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Frigidaire AEQ8000 dryer doesn't completely dry clothes


1. Gas valve coilsIgniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Sep 15, 2008 | Frigidaire AEQ7000ES Dryer

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