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Heated water buckets

Do you know of a way to replace the heating element in this unit. It appears sealed but the bottom has four screws that may hold the bottom heating element in place.
This is a 16 Gallon, 260W plastic bucket – 1 Yr warranty……$60.00
Not sure if replacement heaters can be obtained. Mfgs’ web site has no information.

Product: Allied Precision Industries – Heated Buckets (Model 16HB)

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Model DEDW645S dishwasher - no longer wil remove butter from knives or butter dish. How do I know if the heater element (if there is one) is no longer working? Other dishes was well.

There is no sensor to tell of the heating element is not working. The water should be heated to 50 - 60 C. You might want to interrupt it when it is washing to see what the temp is.

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How to replace the Thermostat and Element for Electric Hot Water Heater

If you are having a problem with your electric hot water heater then you may also wonder if you can replace the failed part. The short answer to this is yes! The replacement is easy enough that most any handy person can easily perform this task.

First off make sure that you remove all power to your electric hot water heater. Then remove the access covers that cover the thermostats and the heating elements. After performing the required diagnostic tests to find the fail part you can then concentrate on the part removal and replacement. Check the tips at the bottom of this one to see how to trouble shoot your hot water heater.

To replace the heating element you may have one of two styles of element. One style has a four bolt flange that holds the element in and the other has threads that hold it in.

Before removing an element make sure that you shut off the water and drain the tank to a level below that of the element that you need to replace. This will keep you from making a mess and possibly hurting your self with the hot water.

For the four bolt flange type element, you simply remove the two wires from the element and then turn out the bolts from the flange. Once the flange is off the element will just pull back and out of the hole.

Replace with a new element and gasket. Make sure that the new gasket gets seated in the hole to seal the element when you tighten down the bolts on the flange again. The bolts do not need to be super tight. Just snug them up good and then fill the hot water heater with water to check for leaks and then tighten more if necessary.

For the screw in elements, a removal tool is a good idea.
A large socket looks like it would work, but because of the thinness of the hex part of the element and the bevel on most large sockets, it is very difficult to get them to grip the element securely. Most hardware stores or home centers sell a very inexpensive removal tool that works very effectively. It is well worth the effort to get the proper tool to do the job. To remove the screw in element you need to turn the element to the left or counter clockwise. Then make sure that you do not cross thread the new element as you turn in clockwise or to the right and tighten it in. Once again, make sure the gasket is seated correctly and do not over tighten. Re-hook the wires after leak checking the tank and replace the cover before energizing the electric hot water heater.
To replace either the top or bottom thermostat, you also need to de-energize the hot water heater and remove the cover. When removing a thermostat it is a very good idea to mark the wires and the position where they were on the old thermostat. This makes the re-installation of the new thermostat easier. The old thermostat is held tightly too the tank so that it gets a good reading on the tank temperature. Be careful not to bend the bracket that holds the thermostat when you remove the old one. If you do not have the new thermostat making good contact with the tank it will not operate correctly and give you too hot of water. After switching the old thermostat with the new one, replace all of the wires to their correct position, replace the plastic, and the cover before energizing the hot water heater. Both the top and bottom thermostats are similar in their replacement, but the top thermostat also incorporates a safety reset control and switches power to the bottom element when the top of the tank is hot enough, so there a re a few more wires to that thermostat. This also keeps the two thermostats from being interchangeable. You cannot install a bottom thermostat or the top or a top one on the bottom.

This whole process is not as complicated as it may seem and you can do it!

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My hoover tumbledryer condenser vhc381 wont work when it is switched on there is a humming noise,the filter care light is also flashing,ive emptyed the water,hoovered it right through the vents and...

Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)

Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.

The really tricky thing was unplugging the heating element to replace it. The plugs are located inside the main housing.

However, the advice found on much of the internet to how to do this is incorrect. In particular the advice to remove the drum is not correct.

The way you access the plugs is by pulling the main heating wire through the hole in the unit, and feeding the plugs through one by one.

Then you can simply unplug the old one, plug in the new one.

Two things are necessary for this:
i) Remove the rubber collar keeping the main wire secure in the hole into the main unit.
ii) Pushing the plastic grommet through the small hole in the main unit. This grommet immobilises the main wire - you won't feed it through without it being released. You'll see quickly what this looks like on the replacement heater you should already have. The white plastic grommet protrudes a little out of the back of the unit close to where the heating wire enters the unit. Pinch it with a pair of pliers and push it back into the unit. The wire will then be free to pull through, and one plug at a time will fit through till you have all four. Then just pull the plugs off (pushing the new ones on requires quite alot of force).

In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.

However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.

So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.

Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
i) Unscrew the 3 top screws located on the back of the unit holding the top of the unit on. Slide the top back and lift it off.

ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.

iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.

iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.

v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).

vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.

vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.

viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.


( if anyone wants to ask questions).

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I provided the following answer for another question about the coffee maker, if you or someone else feels confident in taking the coffee maker apart, this procedure may solve your problem. The water will not move until it is heated. It can be heated if the thermo fuse/s are blown.

If the coffee maker will not pump water, and will not get hot, chances are either one or two of the 240 degree C thermo fuses under the bottom plate are blown or the heating element has gone bad. Unplugged, using a T10 Torx driver, I removed the four screws from the bottom plate. I pulled one of the rubber hoses loose, not from the metal element but from the plastic fitting. I forced water through with a garden hose to remove any beans or other debris in the hose. I put the hose back. I checked the two thermo fuses, both were open, the unit probably ran without water or the filter was plugged. The thermo fuses are 240 degrees C as I mentioned. Radio Shack sells 228 C fuses for $1.79 each, probably close enough. Clip the old fuses out, close to the fuse as possible. Solder in the new fuses, while holding the wire close to the fuse with needle nose pliers as a heat sink as to not overheat the fuse and blow it. Once the fuse cools, solder the other side, again holding the wire next to the fuse. Once both are soldered in, check with an ohmmeter to be sure you did not overheat the fuses. If ok, secure your wiring, make sure nothing is touching, put the bottom back in, clean up as necessary, put water back in, beans as necessary and try it. Worked for me. Most likely cause over the years beans falling into the water and clogging the filter. I'd recommend at least once a year, remove the filter and hose out the water reservoir. Replace filter if necessary. Once the unit runs dry, the elements overheat and blow the fuses. When making coffee, it will use all the water and shut itself off, "normally."

Please understand that you will make this repair with the unit unplugged. If you reassemble the unit incorrectly you could create a shock hazard, make sure none of the bare wires touch anything they shouldn't.

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Empirical Technology - emptech - Jim

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hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
This is a verry common issue with these dryers Please read this solution fully below
F/05 Water Temperature Sensor Error
If during the water heating step in wash cycle, the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range, or the heating element circuit has failed, the "F/05" error code will be displayed.
  • Check the Water Temperature Sensor, Heating Element and Element Relay
  • Check connections to the Sensor, Heating Element and Relay

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Depends on how much that you use the dishwasher. It's possible that the element is burnt out. If you know how to check the element, you can with a meter, however if you don't know electrical, then by all means get a qualified individual. There isn't a thermostat. Everything is on a timer circuit.If there is a preheat on the machine, you could set it to that and the element should come on also.

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