Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
It will fill with water but won't agitate or spin.
If the washer makes a noise from the front bottom center, when not agitating and not spinning, the motor/gearbox coupling has broken.
closed open It is designed to break, if the load gets enough that the motor may be damaged and is simple (enough) to replace
whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models but close enough, some have 2 clips some 3
(note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
(note: position for reinstall)
(note position for reinstall)
(Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
(note dont hit the legs they break.)
(note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
in reverse order to above
gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
baseball, sounds like a broken coupler, check out this post and post back, Catriver http://www.fixya.com/support/t144580-kenmore_8series_washer
Posted on Apr 27, 2007
Common problem with these top loading Kenmore models.There are many step by step solutions on replacing whats called the motor coupling(3 pieces) An easy way to tell if this is your problem when you pull the washer out you may see a pile of black(or maybe even white) shavings right under the motor.The coupler keeps you from doing damage to the gearbox and breaks away first.It's a pretty easy repair if you follow the step by step instructions found on this site.(sorry I don't know how to linc for you) I just read a bunch of them and even found a couple that were on youtube showing video.The part is readily available on line or in my case at an appliance repair shop close to me.The hardest part of this repair for me was just getting the cover off first,but once again there are step by step instructions for that on here as well.The part is about 13-17 dollars,and it is a little tricky getting the one end on the gearbox,but take your time and follow the help full guides and it really isn't that bad.The cause for this problem seems to be first of all the material that the part is made of,but is mostly caused(from what i have been reading) is overlaoding of your washer.
Hope this helps,doing this repair is a whole lot cheaper than calling Sears
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
Fix it. Very easy fix and the part is not expensive. What you have is a direct drive motor. For ease of maintenance the machine is made in a way which makes it possible to service it in place without having to move it. You flip the controls up and pop the retaining clips in back, unplug the lid switch harness and tip the case towards you an out of the way. You can now access the pump, motor, and that pesky drive coupling. These do simply wear out but they usually will go if a comforter is washed in it or low water big load scenario.
I have videos repair manual,parts locaters and repair photos: HERE
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
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