Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating
Thermostat controls heat. There is also a
motor centrifulgal switch, in the element
circuit, that the motor closes to insure
the motor is turning. Try another heat
setting. There is more than one
thermostat. You may have blown the
'thermal fuse' too, which requires
replacement. The elecment has a contact in
the 'timer' circuit too.
It is possible that your element has
Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint
filter and the exhaust vent tube and all
the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
SOURCE: Heat will not stay on
Hi, very common problem.
The problem is with the gas coils.
When they get weak, they only come on for about 10 minutes and then the machine will blow cold air. There are 2 of them with one being the booster coil. They come in a pair and run less than $20.
Best of luck. Please e-mail me if you have any other questions.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
SOURCE: I have an electric whirlpool
Hi dustin me413...
Try some of these tests to locate your problem
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
Posted on Apr 27, 2011
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