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Re: t the spring over the friction pads on a centrifugal...
Hello sir, Please provide the following information so that your issue may be diagnosed properly,what is it? brand name,complete model number The problem, What is happening with what? When it is happening? Are there times it does not happen? Did it just start happening? Did it ever work ? Did any seemingly unrelated event coincide with whatever it is not working? need the model number and brand name, if you need a manual i need the brand name and model number,if it is a riding mower the model number is under the seat.a snow blower the model number is on the rear of the machine, let me know,thank you. ~~
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hello sir, Please provide the following information so that your issue may be diagnosed properly,what is it? brand name,complete model number The problem, What is happening with what? When it is happening? Are there times it does not happen? Did it just start happening? Did it ever work ? Did any seemingly unrelated event coincide with whatever it is not working? need the model number and brand name, if you need a manual i need the brand name and model number,if it is a riding mower the model number is under the seat.a snow blower the model number is on the rear of the machine, let me know,thank you. ``
It sounds to me like a part is missing in the clutch assembly. Bear in mind that the first plate installed in the clutch assembly is a cork friction plate, then metal, cork, metal, ect.. You should end up with a cork friction plate. There should be 6 metal plates and 7 cork friction plates. The diagram below is a tri-z 250. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
Replacing the clutch is fairly easy on most motorcycles. A factory repair manual is helpful and suggested, but in a nutshell, here's the proceedure.
There is a round cover on the right side of the engine, this is the clutch cover. After draining the oil, remove the cover and this will expose the clutch pressure plate that will be retained with a number of washered bolts and springs. Remove the pressure plate, and the clutch plates can be removed. There will be alternating friction and steel plates-remove them all and keep them in a stack in the order they were removed. Soak the new friction plates in oil before installation. Install the new plates starting and ending with friction, alternating a steel plate in between.Be aware that some motorcycles have a different first and last friction plate, your parts dealer should know that when you buy the parts.
After it's stacked reinstall pressure plate with new springs, bottom out the washered bolts and no additional torque is required. Reinstall cover with new gasket, fill with oil and adjust clutch lever so it has enough slack to slide a quarter in between the lever and perch. Good luck!
your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.
Does the chainsaw seem to rev up without any resistance, or does it bog down as you push the throttle? If it revs up quickly, then it sounds like the clutch plates may be frozen - usually due to rust. If it boggs down, then the chain and/or clutch housing are frozen or stuck somewhere.
The chain drive uses a centrifugal dry friction clutch with two weighted plates that are spring loaded. The springs keep the plates disengaged from the clutch housing to allow the engine to spin freely at an idle (or slip when the chain slows down due to the blade binding).
When you press the throttle, the engine revs up and the higher RPMs create centrifugal force causing the clutch plates to push outward - fighting against the springs, and begin creating friction on the inside of the clutch housing. If rust prevents the clutch plates from moving out to cause the necessary friction, the clutch housing (and drive gear which is permanently affixed to the housing) won't spin and the chain won't move.
With the engine OFF and cool...first take a thick towel or rag and place it over the chain with the engine switch in the OFF position. Try to move the chain in the normal rotation (top forward, bottom backward) to see if the chain moves freely or if it is stuck in position. If it does move, then take off the chain cover and then get a can of PB Blaster and spray the clutch plates and springs. Give it an hour or so and then take a rag and wipe off the excess and reassemble and try it. The excess PB Blaster will burn off with the heat of the clutch and the rust will no longer be a problem.
If the chain won't move, then somewhere along the drive the chain or clutch housing are stuck. Look for a bend or kink in the bar where the chain rides.
Primary drive gear (the clutch "basket")
Clutch pressure plate
Clutch drive plate (has friction pads) x 6 of these alternating with...
Clutch driven plate (smooth) x 6 of these
Clutch drive plate (thicker with friction pads) x 1 of these to finish plates
Wave washer seat
Clutch sleeve hub then goes on with springs etc.
please check the site below, it has exploded views of the bike in all categories.
The springs and center nut should be tight. Check the clutch for proper sequence of clutch parts. Also, be sure the clutch lever assembly and left side cover are fully in place before the clutch is assembled. First plate should be a friction plate, then metal pressure plate then friction, etc. Thrust washer & two others in the proper locations? Clutch lifter in backwards? Is the clip missing?
I took the transmission apart and the gears were fine. The friction pads on the centrifugal clutch don't seem to make full contact with the drum. Does anyone know what the thickness of the friction pads are suppose to be? I used some belt dressing on the pads and got some movement on the tines. With no wear on the gears, I guess I'll be replacing the clutch.