Jumpered past flame sensor and burner fires for 3 minutes, then quits. i've read a lot for the solutions on this site, but can't find the thermal fuse on blower duct. my dryer is actually a kenmore 74551 older model. can't find anything on it. thanks ian
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: dryer heats for 3 minutes, flame quits
The flame is suppose to cycle on and off. If the flame ran continously you would have a fire. And please don't use the top of it for anything such as clothes piles. Dryers need to be free of clutter on top. I know it may be hard to do but do it and your dryer will last you. Good Luck. Whatever you jumpered reverse it ok!
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
What did you do move it from one place to another place? You may have shifted the lint around and cause a limit to get tripped. Here is the manual and more
A gas dryer has a burner assembly consisting of an ignitor, 2 coils, and a flame sensor. The ignitor does 2 functions. It lights the fire and confirms the fire is on like a thermocouple. When it is heated it holds in the coil. If the glowbar is not lit then the coils will not open. The ignitor must be heated to allow that. So if the ignitor and flame sensor is fine and the dryer works when cool but stops heating when hot I would say you need to replace the solenoids.
check your hi-limit and/or cycling thermostats as they may be going bad(bypass them with a jumper wire) or check for weak gas boost and secondary coils on the gas valve when they get weak they wont hold open the gas valve
When a gas dryer starts and the burner does not stay lit more than one minute the flame sensor is not detecting the flame to as a by design safety feature the burner is automatically shut off. It is not sensing flame so it is shut off.
BEFORE you change this part make sure that the outside vent flapper and the ducting form the back of the dryer is free of lint. Disconnect the dryer vent and try it with nothing connected to the dryer. Also check around the lint filter area for lint especially in the bottom. If there is not a lint or ducting problem then by all means change the flame sensor.
First, there is a sensor right at the burner flame. If the sensor does not indicate flame the gas is shut off to avoid filling your house with gas. It is usually a short metal rod. Oftentimes cleaning it will get it working again. Or the signal from the sensor isn't getting back to the controller, so check for loose connections.
This page explains it well. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/flamesensor.php
There are some other sensors that will shut the heat down. A temp sensor where the hot air leaves the dryer drum. This is to keep from overheating the clothes and lighting them on fire. If this sensor is bad, or the wiring to it is not getting that signal back to the controller, the dryer will shut the burner down. Although 10-15 seconds is pretty short, this is a possibility. Try different heat settings to see if you get the same result. If it only happens on one heat setting you most likely have a bad temp sensor.
Visit here for more info. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/thermostat.php
Another possibility is that the gas valve (solenoid) is getting near the end of its life and can't stay open long. This is not likely, but still possible since the burner does light.
Next possibility is that the gas line is partially plugged. When the burner fires the gas pressure drops rapidly. When the burner goes out the gas sneaking past the obstruction raises the pressure back up.
Sounds like the valve is trying to open and the buzzing is the restriction of it opening. Coil is obviously correct, but actual solonoid is sticking. Replace it and see. If flame isnt detected, it will stop.
The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower
housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air
coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the
dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor
mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the
ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the
and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully
energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red
hot igniter and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes
or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to
the gas valve assembly. So...
If your gas dryer has a good flame sensor and a good igniter AND the dryer will work some and quit, replace these:
Gas operator coils part# 279834
The coils get hot and quit on these machines when they get a
little age on them. It is aggrevating because it is a hard to diagnose
thing. But well worth the 20 bucks.
AFTER THE BURNER SHUTS DOWN THE 1ST TIME IT SHOULD COME BACK ON WITHIN 1 TO 3 MINUTES. WHEN THE BURNER TRIES TO COME BACK ON YOU'LL HEAR A CLICK AND THE GLOW OF THE IGNITOR SHOULD BE VISIBLE. AFTER 30 TO 60 SECONDS IGNITOR SHOULD FADE AND THE BURNER SHOULD FIRE. IF IGNITOR FADES AND BURNER DOES NOT FIRE YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE BURNER COILS #279834. IF IGNITOR DOES NOT COME ON YOU WILL HAVE A T STAT OR SENSOR ISSUE. SOUNDS LIKE COILS TO ME. HOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTAT ME HUBAPPLIANCE@COMCAST.NET. PLEASE RATE MY RESPONSE.
Please provide the brand and model number of your dryer.. However.. you state that your dryer is not heating properly and yet the burner ignites.. If you have a flame after ignition and your dryer is drying slowly, I would be inclined to look at the blower and or vent for restrictions in air flow. The heat generated by the burner will not be optimized in terms of drying clothes if you do not move that air out . Any and all restrictions to normal vent flow will make the dryer less efficient and dry times will be longer. If you are bound an determined to get into the flame sensor and thermostat logic, then please provide a brand and model number..
Hope this helps...