Question about Whirlpool Dryers
MY WHIRLPOOL DRYER WILL NOT START, IT'S 3 -YEARS OLD IS IT THE START BUTTON?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Regarding model LER5644EQ2, here is a link to a parts website complete with an assembly drawing and parts list. In all probability,you have a blown thermal fuse and that will need replacing http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Item #23 on the drawing .. a quick test would be to ( with power removed or disabled) measure the resistance across the two terminals and it should not be an open circuit or it is blown. The drawing shows exactly where it is and the parts list shows the item number/ cost and where to buy a replacement. Hope this helps..
Regarding model number is YLEQ5000PW1, you may have the same problem with your thermal fuse.. the parts website does not show a detailed darwing of your model but it should be similar to the other one I've cited in the location and thermal fuse.. The link I am sending is for the parts list for your washer and the thermal fuse.. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Let me know if that isn't the problem and we can look at other ways to zero in on a solution..
Hope this helps...
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
pull motor switch out(the one with wires go in motor) best use compressed air.... lint is stopping lever... this all happens after you turn breakers off...hi hi
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
It may not be the heating element causing your problem. There are other components that can fail that will cause the same symptoms. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
By far, on that machine the "thermal fuse" accounts for more than 50% of all heating problems.
Unplug machine and remove back cover. On the air chute in the middle back of the dryer you will see a small narrow bakelite device with 2 wires connected to it. It is held in with 1 screw.
You will need an ohm meter to test it, or remove it and have an
appliance parts house test it for you. If bad replace.
Whirlpool part #3392519.
The second common problem on that dryer is the heating element and can be checked with an ohm meter as well.
On rare occasions one side of the 230 volt supply is out.
The side running the motor is o.k. but the heater side has lost power.
Caution: your dealing with 230 volts here. remove plug receptacle cover and check with a volt meter for power.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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