Question about Washing Machines
Heavy duty 70 series model 110 92273100
Either the pressure switch is bad or the pressure switch hose from the wash tub to the pressure switch is kinked or plugged so air pressure cant reach switch and operate switch,remove hose at tub and blow into it and see if machine now operates,if not the switch is bad
Posted on Feb 19, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This could be from a few things. First test. Turn on the washer to fill it up about 3/4 the way. Now turn it back off. Does the water stop? No? You probably have a bad water valve. Replace it. Yes? Listen for the sounds of running water or look for water on the floor. Do you see/ hear this? Yes? Your pressure hose has probably come off, reattach it. If it does turn off and there is not further sounds or leaking water, you probably need to replace your pressure switch.
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If everything else works OK, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on the transmission.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
You can also see this site for removing the transmission.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.
The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Did you clean the mesh screen filter in the end of the hose where it connects to the valve. It can stop up with sediment.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
probably your drain pump leaking it has a seal right where it attaches to motor,,,,mine is leaking there but haven't replaced it yet! lol
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
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