The steel toe of my chippewa motorcycle boots hangs down across my toes inside the boots

drive wheels tend to pull forward and will as a result tend to exaggerate the toe in
I would go for the lesser amount
find the specifications from a MB service shop and remember that age of suspension parts will make it worse

There is (should be) a screw visible on each of the toe and heel pieces when looking down from directly above. That screw will adjust the height of the piece that clamps down on the top of the tabs on the heel and toe of your ski boots. For proper height measurement, use a credit card (or similar thickness card) and make sure you can somewhat freely slide the card side-to-side under your boot when it is in the binding and clamped down as when you are skiing. Too much play, and you will feel a sloppyness while skiing. Too little and you risk the binding not releasing properly caused by stiction. You can find demonstrations on YouTube also.

Are you talking about wearing steel-toed boots? Have you looked at the line of boots offered by TourMaster?

Chippewa boots really don't run narrow. The HEAVY THICK leather is a lot more rigid and dense. It does not stretch to conform to your feet like thinner less dense leather shoes/boots. Your foot can't maneuver around inside because of the density and therfor the boot feels tight.

You didn't say what year and model your bike is but on all H-D bike the shifter position is adjustable. Take the bolt out and pull the shifiter off the splines. Mark it before you do. Change the angle up or down one spline and try it. If it's a Big Twin, sometimes you can get a bit of adjustment at the shifter reach rod as well. As for the brake pedal, there isn't a lot of adjustment but you can look at the return stop. Sometimes the bikes are equipped with a bolt that acts as a stop for when the pedal returns. Depends on the model of the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

toe down for first, half click heel for neutral, then heel shift for 2,3,4,5. toe down to down shift.

You may also want to look at how you are setting up your bindings. I have a US 11 foot (29 cm) and with my bindings set correctly have never had any issues with toe or heal drag.

The best way to set up your bindings it to take them off, remove the mounting screws, keep the base plates in and fit your boots into your bindings with the straps still undone. Then, with the board on the floor, position the binding at the angle you like (roughly) and look to see when the toe and heel over lap is even or if you are like me pull the bindings back slightly so that you have little or no toe drag and just little heel drag. It works a treat and I have done this for over a hundred customers over the years.

bent alloy, bent steel rim, broken belting inside of tire(caused from hitting a good size hole). lug nuts not torqued to correct ft lbs, outer or inner tie rods, toe/ cmber out of adjustment. Are the tires wearing? If not, forget the camber/toe

No full 4 wheel alighnment. The struts you have replace are how the front camber is adjusted. After camber has been adjusted then toe will be set.