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Chain saw stalls

Newish machine. When speeding up (under load or without load); stalls. Have replace gas mixture, cleaned air filter and replaced gas filter. Saw worked perfectly for first 10-20 hours. Starts easily.

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  • Dick Giroux Feb 19, 2012

    I just responded to the very helpful comments. In looking it all over again I see that I apparently didn't specify that the saw is a Husquarna 460 mode.

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  • 316 Answers

Hello sir,, now there are two types of carb.adjustment screw covers,the old one where there are plastic over the screws,simple remove the plastic covers with a pair of needle nose pliers or cutting off,,,second are the new ones that are above the adjustment screws,which you have to take your drummel tool with the cutting blade and cut slots in the screws, after you get this done it is important to count the number of rotations in until stops make note how many. because you are going to reset the same way.now remove the screws,put to the side when you get ready to put screws in put in all the way than back out as many turns that you noted, now that is factory set there should only be a small adjustment to do. the rule of thumb is turn both out 1 1/4 turn and adjust in until saw runs smooth and idles ok, it is hard to adjust the top speed when saw is running wide open,let saw idle when adjusting top speed is easier that way, when you go to cut wood you may have to readjust top speed, the above does apply some what if you are not using fresh gas mix and dumped out the old fuel and starting with fresh,and a new plug CJ8Y,and as you know the saw has to breath in and out by this i mean a clean air filter,make sure the small screen on the muffler is not cloged,this will keep saw from running at peak speed and sawing wood, ok i have ran across a few saws to where the small screen in the muffler is cloged so the saw would idle but not run at high rpm's,if you do and check all of the above your saw should run,oh btw check compression should be above 60 to 160 lbs, hope this helps,any comments welcome,thank you. 00

Posted on Feb 18, 2012

Testimonial: "Thank you; yes helpful! I'm a little confused about the car adjusting screws, The 460 has two 1/4" closely adjoining (Overlapping a bit, in fact) holes, labeled L and H. My small screwdriver will go in 2 inches. The right one (H) seems to have a slot (meets resistance when I gingerly try to turn it), while with the left one (L) it is not so apparent that thee is a slot. Make sense (I doubt it). I haven't actually tried to turn either yet. "

  • pamabell Feb 19, 2012

    hello you can get the special adjustment tools on e bay,that is where i got mine,two types $15.00,,

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  • 1 Answer

Clean out the Exhaust ports. I've had that problem & take off muffler spray with carburetor cleaner & clean out holes with small screwdriver.

If it can't get rid of the exhaust no adjusting of carburetor will fix your problem.

Posted on Feb 20, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Loringh
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SOURCE: Chain saw starts with starting fluid only but will not run.

Hi lwhssh:
Suggest you drain the fresh gas/oil and add a fresh batch but first add a gas stabilizer to your batch of gas/oil in the storage container. You will probably still need to use starting fluid for a few times When 2 cycle engines sit for a long period of time, the gas/oil mixture undergoes a change and tends to leave a residue on the delicate parts of the carb. The gas stabilizer will help that.

I always do the following for 2 cycle engines when I put them up for the winter. Empty the gas container on the device and then start it to use up any gas left in the fuel lines and carb. this keeps any residue from forming.

Hope this helps Good luck Loringh PS please leave a rating if appropriate. Thanks

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

slohry
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Owners manual for Craftsman 20 in chain saw, needed

Parts manual, have model # available

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080129x00001

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Chain Saw, Stihl Model 011, cutting off

I've been messin with my poulan 2150 that was doing the same thing. Good, fresh gas, good spark,etc. I noticed whenever I loosened the fuel cap it would literally spray gas out! alas, I removed the muiffler assy and the darn thing fired up the first pull! I've got the muffler parts soaking in gas right now and I'm sure this the problem. It just makes sense especially if you use the same 'mixed fuel' can for weed eater, blower,etc. Check your's out, it could very well be your problem too! GOOD LUCK

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

sawdust46694
  • 398 Answers

SOURCE: what is the proper fuel mixture for a husqvarna

The Correct Fuel Mixture Ratio
All two stroke engine will use a 50 to 1 ratio using today's two stroke oils. I once used an old chainsaw probably from the 1960s, that had a sticker on it that said to use a 25 to 1 fuel/oil ratio, but that would have been using two stroke oils of the time period the chainsaw was manufactured. In that chainsaw I used 50 to 1 ratio with no problems. Today's two stroke oils compared to yesteryears are more efficient at lubricating. It is like comparing today's synthetic motor oil to motor oils of decades ago. All the equipment I use in landscaping, anything from a weed eater, leaf blower, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, use 50 to 1 ratio, and I use all types of makes and models, Stihl, Homelite, Husqvarna, Shindaiwa, and Echo, Sears. I mix up a 5 liter fuel can and use it in all of the equipment for my customers and for my landscaping. To calculate the ratio is simple. For instance , if you have 1 gallon of fuel it is best to break it down into smaller units, like ounces. One gallon = 128 oz. You then divide this amount by the ratio of the mixture which is 50 to 1 (50 parts fuel, 1 part oil). So therefore 128 oz of divided by 50 = 2.56 oz (you would just measure out 2.5 oz ) of two stroke oil. If using metric, say a 5L gas can, you would break this down to smaller units, which would be milliliters. 5L = 5000 ml. 5000 ml of fuel divided by 50 = 100 ml of two stoke oil.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: Fuel Mixture Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chain Saw

Page 17 of your Operator's Manual says 50:1.


Fuel/Oil Mixture

  1. Use a quality 2 cycle oil and mix it to the OIL supplier's recommended ratio. Today I use Stihl 2 cycle oil mixed @ 50:1 in a Pioneer that I purchased new in 1980. There are no gouges or scratches on the piston or cylinder and I have no carbon build up on the piston top. The manual (on stone tablets) recommends 24:1. Over the years the mixture has leaned from 24:1 (Saw Recommendation) to 28:1 (Lawn boy mower recommendation) to 32:1 (Oil provider 8oz/2gal - used for many years) and finally the last 5 (±) years 50:1 (Stihl 2.6oz/1gal)
  2. Most gas in the US of A contains ethanol; not good with chainsaws. Mix what you expect to use within a few months. Anything over 6 months old use up in a 4 cycle engine. HTH
    Lou

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Will not run smoothly on idle speed


Chain saws are 2 cycle engines that like to work at high speed, and they are not known for a smooth idle.
Make sure the gas filter and air filter are clean, and that the spark plug is good. There are idle and mixture controls on the carb.
Keep it well maintained and run fresh gas with the recommended oil mix and you should get years of service from it.

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Is the chain too tight..!? You should be able to roll the chain forward using a combi spanner without too much effort and it should stop and not run on..
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This is sometimes caused by dirt in the gas tank. When the saw is off and being moved around the dirt settles to the bottom. The saw will start OK and rev up but after a while the dirt gets shaken up and sticks to the fuel filter in the tank. When enough dirt covers the filter the saw looses power or dies all together. Sometimes it will get enough gas to idle but not enough to run at high speed. With the tank half full, shake the saw to get all the dirt stired up and dump it out. Put a little gas in it and shake & dump it again. If you can fish the fuel line with the filter on it out, remove the filter and either replace it or blow it out. If this doesn't cure all your problems you may have leaks in the fuel line to the carb that are letting in more air than gas causing your power problems.

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The fuel pick up or filter should be changed every year but if your saw will start and run good but just not idle then adjust the screw marked T counterclockwise slowly until chain starts to rotate without you depressing the throttle.At that point back it off about 1/16 of a turn until saw will idle but chain doesn't move.Thank you. P.S. If you want to you can go back to factory setting by turning H & L fully closed then open 1 to 1 1/4 turn and very slowly adjust for smoothest operation. Do not adjust H anymore then minimum off factory to avoid engine damage.
If you need further help I would suggest you have a trained tech.service it. Good luck.

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How do you change the air & fuel filters on a Craftsman 18'' chain saw and any tips on its maintenance


The fuel filter is in the gas tank. You need a small stiff wire or something small with a hook on it. There is a fuel line that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter is on the bottom of it. You need to pull that fuel line out of the gas tank to change it. Be careful not to damage the fuel line while trying to fish it out of the tank. It's hard to replace. The air filter should just be under the cover for the carburetor.

For TuneUp

You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. There is usually a rubber grommet on the side of the housing near the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You should start the chainsaw and warm it up untill it will run without choking. Make sure that the air filter is cleaned. Start by turning the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn from where it idled at the fastest rpm. At this point you may need to adjust the idle adjustment till the saw idles at a good speed but not fast enough that the chain turns. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. To set the high adjustment screw will require that you run the saw at max RPM. It may be a good idea to get someone to hold the saw so the bar doesn't hit anything while you're doing this. Hold the throttle trigger all the way down and then turn the high adjustment screw in and out until you find maximum rpm. Turn the screw back in a quarter turn. Your saw is now tuned for the elevation you're currently at.

For chain oiler:

Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.

Sharpening Saw:


Whether you learn to do it by hand or buy a saw sharpening attachment keeping a sharp chain is #1 in my book for keeping your saw running properly. The more pressure you have to exert to cut makes the saw run hotter, the bar wears out faster, the chain wears out faster and the sprocket wears out fast plus it's just plain harder on you to run the saw. In my timber cutting days I would file my chain every time I filled the saw with gas. Here is a helpful video for sharpening a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0

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