Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
Just need to see a wiring diagram to see if lid lock can be bypasses. A piece of plastic has broken off and lid won't lock
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You can check various appliance repair websites for self help manuals, or you can follow these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Have you purchased a lid switch yet? Most major appliance repair centers carry them. The price is about $35. If you have not purchased one yet, let me know what your EXACT model number is (located on the rim of the wash tub opening under the lid) and I will locate a part number for you. I hope this information helps you.
Posted on Jan 21, 2008
The only way to bypass this switch is fist pill the plug, gain access to the switch from under the hood. put a jumper wire on the 2 wires on the switch. that will do it. I hope this helps you out.
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
This is a very easy problem that you can repair yourself. The following link explains in detail how to replace a lid switch such as yours:
A replacement switch can be purchased on line at any of the following sources:
All three sites offer great service and have competitive pricing. So, shop all three for the best price. Just use your COMPLETE model number (usually located under the washer lid along the tub rim) to begin your search criteria. If you do not wish to order on line, use the part number provided by the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. Yes, this a part that they should carry in their inventory.
If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
Disconnect everything, power first. Keep the drain hose above the top of the washer if the bucket’s full of water. If there are clothes in it, remove them to a water-tight location (like a cooler or something).
Put the unit on an appliance dolly and get it onto the driveway before removing the drain hose from the rear of the unit. Water will gush out for a while here.
Unscrew the two hex bolts at the top of the unit that attach the plastic tabs to the console. Unscrew the screws in the end caps that attach it to the top of the cabinet. Unscrew the two hex bolts at the base of the rear panel that attach it to the base.
Pull the console forward and up a little to dislodge it. Slide it out of the way enough to get access to the two brass clips. Put a flat-head screwdriver in the hole towards the front and pry the clip forward a little to release it. Remove both clips. This releases the rear panel from the top of the cabinet.
One cable goes from the console to the top of the cabinet: this is the lid switch. Disconnect it.
Pull the cabinet forward now that everything is detached. It helps to have someone holding the console and rear panel while you do this. Remove the cabinet.
Place it on something to prevent scuffing, like a few towels or a small animal. The lid switch is the only device here. Unscrew it from the ground (one hex screw) and from the inside of the lid (two Phillips screws). Push the grey tube holding the wires out of the clip holding it in and release the plug from the top of the lid.
Take this to a parts shop and ask for another. It’s around $25-50 depending on how desperate you look.
Snap the gray tube back in, screw in the ground and switch. Close the lid: it should click now. If not, check that you actually screwed the new unit in properly. Yes, the new one.
Replace the cabinet and the rear panel, then the clips and the console. Replace all screws and bolts. Make sure there are no spare parts. Reattach all the cables and hoses and plug power in last.
Test it by putting it on a small load and let some water into the tub. Then stop it, move to spin dry, and start it with the lid open. Nothing should happen. Close the lid (you made sure to replace the drain hose, right?) and it should start spinning and pushing out water.
Congratulations, you saved over $100 and only lost a few hours of your life doing it.
And now you know where my morning went.
Pro tip: don’t let the lid fall down anymore. Place it down, don’t drop it.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
HI. Check and see if you might have tripped the breaker. If there is a ground fault outlet close by. check that as well.
It sounds like you bypassed it properly. Try and reconnect the wires with the wire nut. Sometimes it doesn't connect properly.
I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 30, 2009
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