Question about Frigidaire AEQ6000ES Electric Dryer

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Why will my dryer will run but not heat up - Frigidaire AEQ6000ES Electric Dryer

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  • Mark Hickey Apr 19, 2012

    You may have the same problem I did, with the heating element. My solution is posted below. You really should download the manual from the link below and run through the diagnostic flowchart, however. You could have a bad fuse (thermal limiter or high limit thermostat), or a bad heating element, and each is more or less work and expense to replace. Here is what worked for me.

    Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element.

    Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTg...

    It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below).

    To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it.

    When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke.

    You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!

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Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element.
Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTgYWH5ZmRhODliYjktYjZmZC00OTdkLTk1MDQtZDA1YWQ1ZjFjMTI3/edit?hl=en&pli=1
It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below).
To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it.
When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke.
You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!

Posted on Apr 19, 2012

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