My Samsung hard disk hd204UI does not mount any more but clicks. When I examined the printed circuit board I found a broken component with the letters 1R2S. Can I replace it so that I could back up my data?
Thanks in advance!
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Re: Samsung hard disk component broke
The component can be replaced if you can find an equivalent part and have experience soldering, or know someone who can solder. It would normally be easier to find someone who has the same drive or to buy another drive of the same model and just move the circuit board from the working drive to the not working drive, copy the data off of it, then move the circuit board back. Or you can just keep the working circuit board on the drive and continue using it as you did before.
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First i suggest you check the wall outlet by plugging something else into it and making it's working. Now that you determined the plug has power unplug the plasma, open it up and look at the capacitors, most are probably blue and look like small standing up tubes, compare the tops of them with the rest, if they all look the same, none are swollen up or dark, then look for any black marks on the circuit boards, if you find a burnt spot, if you have some advanced repair skills and a solder gun, you can remove the bad component and search ebay or other online places and solder in a new one or replace the bad circuit that you found, if you cant find the burnt spot, then u may need to remove more screws and examine the back sides of the boards. If not advanced to do a solder repair, you can probably find that panel or bad circuit and replace it at a little more cost then only replacing a bad relay, capacitor, etc. its not hard and you have nothing to loose by soldering in a new part to fix yourself.
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The components that are most likely to produce such a sound will also leave visible traces behind.
The most likely is a capacitor but these are used in many different packages and can be cylindrical with axial leads mounted parallel to the board, may be vertically mounted or with smaller values, surface mounted. When these fail, they can cause the case to burst or chemical deposits to leak onto the board surface.
The other device may be a power semiconductor, most often in black epoxy packages mounted with or without a heatsink and when they catastrophically fail, may have a jagged crater in the epoxy.
You should have a good light source to examine the boards. While doing so, look for any signs of an 'arc-over' such as burn traces between the printed circuit runs.
The most likely place for a failure of this kind is not on the largest of the boards but on smaller, separate boards on which the power supply is normally found.
Before invading the innards, pull the AC plug for at least several hours and preferably overnight to avoid the chance of getting a painful shock from exposed component leads since some components can store a charge for hours.
The controller circuit (usually a small board connected directly to DVD drive - it is either part of the drive or a sub-assembly which is attached - and contains several ICs and small capacitors and a lot of surface-mounted components on its copper side) is probably faulty, possibly due to the original bad PSU (which you have since replaced), chances are the original faulty PSU has damaged this circuit - usually DVD drives operate around 12V DC or so. The digital controller circuit/board not only has the EEPROM/CPU etc. on it, but also has a servo supply - for the DVD (the VCR servo supply is on the motherboard). This powers the disc tray and traverse unit. The controller is not serviceable at component level; it must be replaced and in some cases, the DVD drive must also be replaced where the board is not separate to the drive. This may not be economical.
It may just be a simple case of a blown digital controller circuit - but be warned, this board is not cheap - it is part of a 'module' (the disc drive and controller together = DVD module), and you may not be able to obtain the board without a new DVD drive. Up to you what you do from here, and you might be lucky in terms of the motherboard and HDD - no damage there.
drtech572, Did you see any solder joints that looked "Frosty" compared to what I call "mirror finish" ? All solder joints should have "mirror finish".Also examine all the "through hole mounted" components that are mounted (soldered) to the board for what is known as "thermal overstress fractures". You will need large magnifying glass or better still, a 10x-20x inspection microscope to do this. Examine the larger and more weighty components first and then move on to the smaller ones. You will be looking for a circular "hairline" thin crack around a components lead where it is soldered to the board. There are two causes for this. 1. Shipping & Handling. 2. Thermal shock--cold to hot to cold to hot etc. On some printed circuit boards you will see "globs" of hot-melt glue that might have been spilled onto the board. No! No! No! The glue was put there for cause #1. You should also inspect for any solid state devices (transistors, integrated circuits, rectifiers, opto couplers) that may have "cracked" bodies or leads that are not soldere properly. Also check the bottoms of electrolytic filter capacitors. sometimes they won't "DOME" the top of the aluminum "can" housing. They will "vent" from the bottom pushing the rubber seal plug out towards the board where they are mounted. I hope this has been of some help to you. please rate this response on fixya. I'm louie12fix on fixya or lmistyrel @aol Bye for now.
hi there, you can just re solder the points onto the board once more without buying a completely new board. just remove the board and solder the contact point back on the board itself.that should fix it up for ya. thx for using fixya:)
The electronic control board will have to be replaced. You can search online or call Sears (they can order just about any type of part for any type of product for you) with a model and serial number. Generally, the electronic control board is not that difficult to replace.
try ebay with the same model number. You can transfer the circuit boards, retrieve the data, then you have a spare backup. Otherwise you can try to identify the component and check if digikey or mouser has a replacement. Sometimes if you're lucky the component is a bias diode that is designed to burn out with reversed power. Sometimes the visible damage may not be the only damage and other parts have fried. Touch a grounded object (like the case of your computer that's plugged in) before touching the components, and retouch it frequently, or wear static dissipative wrist strap