The Model 245 under counter ice maker stopped making ice.
Water flow valve is on.
Took the icemaker down and note some test holes in the control box but have no manual and Sub zero site is worthless.
Any ideas or does anybody have a site where the manuakl caN BE DOWNLOADED?
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Re: My subZero Model 245 Icemaker stopped making ice
Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, Catriver...post back.
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Most of the time the problem is the water valve that is electrically actuated by the ice maker controls. Remove the back panel and find the water valves and replace it. Many times sediment or wear and tear causes the valves to stop working properly or it becomes clogged with rust from the water pipes. If, the leak is at the ice maker then perhaps the problem is the water tubing alignment to the ice tray or the ice isn't dumping out of the tray, because the ice tray defrost element/ thermostat/ switch malfunction in the icemaker itself. It's difficult to find the cause without an experienced and competent refrigerator repair technician (such as myself) diagnosing the refrigerator onsite.
It is possible that the line running off the fill valve has broken where it runs through the machine from heat . or when it froze it popped off where it attaches to the fill tube in the back. Does the leak stop when you turn off the icemaker? May be a defrost issue if it doesn't
did they check the water valve?does it fill with water?all it does is the ice maker calls for water,the valve fills it,the water freezes,the cubes dump out and it fills again,most of the time it's either the ice maker or the water valve,if they changed the ice maker and the board all that's left is the valve or a broken wire somewhere in the ice maker harness
It will only call for water when the thermostat is satisfied. Now if you advance the icemaker when the ejector blade reaches 10 oclock thats when it should call for water. If you dont here the valve humming then it would be in the water switch inside the icemaker.Also make sure the thermostat is not set too cold. if its too cold it will never satisfy your control.
Manually advance : remove the cover on icemaker then turn the small gear counter clockwise
Are you sure there is still water available to the ice maker?
Having a little air in the line might make the water spit a bit but it should be quickly purged and function again.
Also, lift the stop lever on the ice maker inside the freezer compartment, then let it back down to cycle the ice maker and see if that re-initiates the ice making cycle. You'll know because there will be water in the ice tray. It may take a few minutes to cycle.
It's also possible that when the water was turned off and back on, some debris in the water line made its way to the water valve for the ice maker and plugged it. Some units have a screen that can be cleaned, but make sure the water is off to the fridge before disassembling this line and attempting to clean any debris.
If your fridge has a control board on the back of the unit, un plug the fridge for about two-three minutes and then plug it back in to reset the system.
If you did get it to work again, toss the first two to three sets of ice just in case there was dirt in the line.
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working.
When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin.
As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve.
The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere.
Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating.
Test And Inspect
The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back.
Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing.
Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
It sound's like you have a faulty icemaker. The icemaker has an internal timer that commands the inlet valve on at the correct time. If it does not stop the command, it will continue to fill. When you shut off the system, it kills power to the icemaker and that is why the solenoid goes off.
Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.
Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.