Question about Dremel Variable - Speed Multipro Rotary Tool 395

7 Answers

Coupling broke The plastic coupling that couples the motor shaft to the rotating shaft broke into several pieces. Is a replacement available or should I try a piece of hose?

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  • Etienne Benade
    Etienne Benade Nov 24, 2008

    What happens when you live in South Africa? Where do you get a shaft coupling. My dremel been running 15 years with no nonsense untill the spline rubber/plastic coupling stripped. Anybody know of spares in SA.?

  • jpla Jan 11, 2009

    i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, WHERE CAN A REPLACEMENT BE FOUND?

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I have a Dremel 395 Type 3. Motor works fine, shaft doesn't turn. Took it apart to find that the white plastic or nylon flex coupling on the shaft had crumbled and the spline driver, which fits directly over the motor end of the shaft was somewhat worn. I emailed Dremel and got an overnight reply listing the 2 parts I need and the cost: Coupling is $1.00 and the driver is $1.25. Placed order by phone: 1-800-437-3635. I ordered 2 of each in case future replacement is needed. Total bill came to $7.27 including Florida tax and shipping. Can't beat that. They said it would be in the mail by tonight. (Flex coupling number is 2615294309; spline driver is 2615294308.)
Rating Locked! (?) lexrehabtech has rated this solution as Helpful

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

  • TOOMERTIM Nov 28, 2011

    Thank you cluffermon. I have the exact model and problem. Great info.

  • Jason Pardo Jul 19, 2012

    Perfect explanation, perfect solution, perfect results. Thank you for saving me from throwing away my beloved Dremel for a part that cost me $5 with shipping. Genius.

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I can't claim credit for this idea because I read it on FixYa from a "guest", but my nylon flex coupling (part # 2615294309) split in half latitudinally but the gears were not stripped. I used a piece of 3/8-inch heat shrink (you should be able to find it at an electronics supply store). With the halves of the coupling in place on the drive shaft, I inserted the heat shrink over them; applied heat from a heat gun; and, voila, problem solved, at least for the time being. It may be just a temporary fix, but time will tell. "Guest" said their "fix" has lasted a over a year.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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JUST USE A 3/8 LATEX TUBE FOUND AT LOWES,BUT THEY MAKE YOU BUY A FOOT OF IT FOR 1.70.YOU CAN ALSO USE 3/8 CLEAR TUBING FOUND AT LOWES AND HOMEDEPOT. ALSO LOOK UNDER THE HOOD OF YOUR CAR YOU MAY HAVE A 3/8 VACUUM LINE THAT YOU CAN CUT OFF A 3/4 LENTH.

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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After consuming a tank of oxygen at high altitude in Colorado, the attendant gave me the plastic tubes from the tank. I examined these tubes after my Craftsman tool failed and found that the coupler on those tubes made the perfect coupling for the tool. It even had grooves on the inside to match the grooves on the tool.
Hope this helps

Posted on Mar 18, 2010

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Came upon a fix that may last a while. Surgical rubber tubing. This tubing +- 7mm stretches tight over both ends of shaft splines. Cut to the right lenght and it works. Other plastic type tube dont work. Only lasts about 10 minutes. Heat shrink lasted 20 min. Thanks for all the help.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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My heat shrink tubing is failing after about a year and that coupler looks bad! It's cheap. By a new coupler. Just a recommendation.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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I tried to fix mine using tubing from Lowe's and it lasted all of about 5 minutes. Way too much torque and it just smoked. Better to order the parts from Dremel; They only cost $2.25 USD plus $2.50 S/H.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

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1 Answer

Why my crosley washing machine model CAWS823JQO made loud nosie then stopped spining


Likely possibilities:
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  2. Transmission has failed.
Number 1 is cheap and relatively simple to replace. Tip the machine up in front and place a support under the front edge of the cabinet. Look for broken pieces on the floor. See if you can freely rotate the motor shaft without affecting the transmission shaft. Check that the transmission shaft can be turned by hand. If yes to both, replace the coupling. If it breaks again after a short time, transmission is likely bad
Number 2 is expensive and difficult. If the coupling's not broken and the motor is operational, OR the coupling breaks again after only a short time, then replace the transmission, or the whole machine entirely.

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Sounds like the turntable drive coupling is broken. In the bottom of the microwave where your turntable is, underneath that is a small drive coupling that the motor shaft pushes into. if the motor doesn't turn or the coupling, which commonly has a D shape shaft to keep it from slipping, is broken, the tray will not turn. One quick test it to remove your tray and see if you can turn the coupling easily by hand, if you can you probably have a broken drive coupling. The turntable motor is very difficult to turn by its shaft. so if it turns easily it is probably a broke coupling. NEVER force your turntable around by hand or you can break that coupling.

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There's probably a coupling between the motor and agitator (underneath the washer tub) that needs to be replaced. These couplings consist of a plastic hub on the motor shaft, a plastic hub on the agitator, and a rubber coupling between the two hubs. Each of the hubs probably has 3 pins that extend into the rubber coupling. Purpose is to soften the load into the motor and the agitator. In your case, enough of the pins are probably broken off so the motor just rotates without actuating the agitator through the coupling. Search for the parts list online, get under the washer and take off the motor and find out which of the parts is broken. If you see a big pile of black stuff under the washer, that's the rubber coupling that has been ground down after the pins broke. Find out which of the parts is broken, order, and install. It should be not to bad. There are a lot of step by step resources online for assembly/disassembly. Good luck and god bless!

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check the lid switch first,lift the lid a couple of inches and close it down,if it clicks the lid switch is good and you most likely broke the motor coupling.remove the twoscrews that hold down the top console,lift it up and with a screw driver pop the metal clips and disconnect the lid switch wires in the middle,it's a white platic connector,now remove the whole cover of the washer,down the bottom you'll see the pump.with a screw driver pop the two metal clips and remove the pump,next remove the tow screws and clips holding the motor in place and pull out the motor,on the back you'll find the coupling,there should be two pieces of white plastic with three arms on each piece and a black piece of rubber that goes in between the two white pieces,remove the old coupling and tap on the new pieces one on the motor shaft and the other on the tranny shaft,slide the rubber piece on the tranny part of coupling and then line up the other piece that's on the motor shaft slide it together and put everything back,it's easier than it sounds,let me know how you make out,if you sent the model number i could of gave you the part number,i think it's PL337

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1 Answer

After rinse cycle, water drains but laundry does not spin out. Sopping wet clothes.


Could be a bad lid switch.
Could be a bad direct drive coupling.
Could be a bad timer.

Remove the 2 screws holding the control console to the top panel. They are on the left and right corners.Pull the console forward slightly and fold it to the rear of the machine. You will see a wiring plug in the top of the cabinet . Unplug this plug. Use a volt meter set for continuity and place the meter leads in the plug receptacle on the cabinet. One lead on the right hand pin,one lead on the left hand pin. With the lid closed it should read continuity. Open and close the lid while touching the meter leads to the pins,the meter should show contact while closed and no contact while open. If there is no contact,replace the lid switch.

If the lid switch is OK, remove the 2 metal brass clips holding the corners of the cabinet to the back panel.Pull the cabinet forward to remove it. UNPLUG THE WASHER. Get on the floor and remove the wires to the motor. Remove the clips holding the water pump to the front of the motor. Remove the 2 clips holding the motor to the transmission. Remove the motor. There will be a plastic piece on the motor shaft,a rubber gasket,then a plastic piece in the transmission shaft.The plastic pieces have 3 plastic pins on them. They may be broken off. The plastic pieces may also be stripped inside where they mount on the motor and transmission shaft. If these are defective buy a new direct drive coupling and install it. The front of the coupling should be flush with the motor shaft and transmission shaft when correctly installed.

If the direct drive coupling is OK. Replace all the parts and re-assemble the washer. PLUG IT IN. With the lid closed. Set the machine to the final spin cycle and turn it on.If you hear the motor running and no spin,open,then close the lid. If it spins then it is a bad timer.

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1 Answer

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Could be a bad lid switch.
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Remove the 2 screws holding the control console to the top panel. They are on the left and right corners.Pull the console forward slightly and fold it to the rear of the machine. You will see a wiring plug in the top of the cabinet . Unplug this plug. Use a volt meter set for continuity and place the meter leads in the plug receptacle on the cabinet. One lead on the right hand pin,one lead on the left hand pin. With the lid closed it should read continuity. Open and close the lid while touching the meter leads to the pins,the meter should show contact while closed and no contact while open. If there is no contact,replace the lid switch.

If the lid switch is OK, remove the 2 metal brass clips holding the corners of the cabinet to the back panel.Pull the cabinet forward to remove it. UNPLUG THE WASHER. Get on the floor and remove the wires to the motor. Remove the clips holding the water pump to the front of the motor. Remove the 2 clips holding the motor to the transmission. Remove the motor. There will be a plastic piece on the motor shaft,a rubber gasket,then a plastic piece in the transmission shaft.The plastic pieces have 3 plastic pins on them. They may be broken off. The plastic pieces may also be stripped inside where they mount on the motor and transmission shaft. If these are defective buy a new direct drive coupling and install it. The front of the coupling should be flush with the motor shaft and transmission shaft when correctly installed.

If the direct drive coupling is OK. Replace all the parts and re-assemble the washer. PLUG IT IN. With the lid closed. Set the machine to the final spin cycle and turn it on.If you hear the motor running and no spin,open,then close the lid. If it spins then it is a bad timer.

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The replacement couplers are more resilient and offer better reliability. The part number is included in the link I provided.

If you have any questions about this repair please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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I'm here in the US so I can't suggest where to find parts, but you should be able to locate a supplier who might have replacements available. Of course the oven will still work without the turntable running. You'll have to open the oven occasionally and turn the food yourself to insure even cooking.

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