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Re: Maytag MAH7550AAW problem
First check under or bottom back of the unit to see the drain hose from the tub , then disconnect the hose from the tub and pull the hair , lint ,ect... that you can
if that don't make it drain better the the front will have to come off , but also if the pump motor is getting weak it may need to be replaced
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Most likely the drum bearing, one or both of the drum rollers or bushing pads, or tensioner pulley bearing is worn. Once in a while it is a motor bearing. I don't know the exact layout of this model, but the general procedure is
Pull the plug.
Remove the bottom trim panel.
Open the door and remove any screws along the top of the door frame going into the top of the dryer.
Check the control panel attachment to the back. If the back of the dryer goes all the way to the top of the control panel, you will need to remove enough screws to detach the back from the control panel and the top of the dryer. You will probably also have to remove the two to four screws going from the control panel to the top.
If all is sufficiently loosened at this point, you should be able to pull the front of the top loose. It may be attached by spring clips. If necessary, shine a strong light into the crack between the top and the front or sides to see what holds it on. Lift the top up like the hood on a car or the surface of a kitchen range. Be careful; it isn't really hinged at the back. You may have to pull it out from under the control panel.
Now you can look inside the dryer for screws attaching the front to the sides. Don't remove these yet. First, turn the drum by hand to see if you can tell where the squeak comes from. If the drum has a scored track all the way around it, you will be looking to see what caused that in the last step.
Disconnect the door switch and lamp wires after you make a note of which wire goes where.
Now you are probably ready to remove the front from the dryer. With the door open, check for any screws there that may be holding the front to the sides. Close the door and remove any screws along the bottom of the front. Remove the screws at the top. Be careful not to lose any sheet-metal spring nuts that may be clipped on to the panels.
Now you should be able to pull the front panel assembly off and look at the entire drum drive mechanism. If you see drum rollers (wheels with solid rubber tires about 3" - 4" diameter), check them for worn bushings or unevenly worn rubber. Inspect any pads between the bottom of the drum and the frame (worn pads will squeak and score the drum). Walk the drum belt off the tensioner pulley, (or if you are strong enough, pull against the spring to release the belt and push the belt off). Check the tensioner pulley for excess play in the bearing. You can also now rotate the motor shaft and feel the condition of its bearings.
On many GE dryers, there are no rollers, but a single nylon sleeve bushing for a pin journal attached to the back of the drum. This is easy to access for replacement by removing a small panel on the back, which is a good thing because it needs to be changed every 3-7 years. However, the Maytag dryers I've worked on had rollers.
Disconnect power to the dryer !!! Remove the 2 screws holding the door hinges on and remove the 2 screws opposite the door hinges . This will let you pull the top of the front panel outward and lift off the bottom clips . If you have enough room , slide your arm thru the front opening to tighten the screws . Otherwise , remove the 2 screws holding the clips for the top , 1 on each side , and lift the top , to get better access to the screws .
remove the toe kick front panel screws near the floor in front then lift up like a car hood to release clips at the top,then remove screws that hold top on,then you can get to the baffle screws to re attach
unplug Dryer, open door, Remove two door hinge screws going into front panel, remove two screws on opposite side. Grab front panel on upper sides and twist and pull front panel out. Panel sits on two clips at bottom so you have to tip panel out to unhook from the bottom. You will see a metal hook with two screws in it that holds down the top of the dryer on each side. Remove the screws and hook bracket. Make sure you note how it reinstalls. Top will now lift up and lean back against a wall. It is hinged in back. You can now easily get to the drum baffle screws. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
I had the same problem but it's the FRONT Panel you need to remove. Before you start, unplug the thing first. BTW I did the whole proceedure in 10 minutes using an electric screwdiver / philips bit and a socket set with an 8mm socket with my leg in a cast. You can do better, I'm confident!
Two 8mm hex head bolts hold each fin on the drum. They can be tightened. You need to open the dryer front since they bolt from the outside of the drum. To open the dryer front you first take the door off by removing the two philips head screws, then slightly lift the door and pull toward you (the door hinges have little hooks on the end that inserts into the slots (this little design keeps the door from falling off during removal and install-nice). Then remove the two philips screws on the other side of the door opening (opposite the door hinges). These screws hold two plastic brackets (be sure to see how they are aligned before you remove them so you know how they go back on.
Now the front frame panel looks like an "H" . Grab the top two arms of the 'H" and give a quick pull. The top arms of the 'H" will come loose. The bottom part is held by a couple of clips, just pull up and the front panel comes off.
You will be able to spin the drum until the hex bolts for the fin(s) in question are visable / reachable from the right side (just above the heater unit-hope you unplugged the dryer earlier). I tightened it using an 8 mm socket.
Now reverse your steps: put the front panel back on the bottom clips and snap the top "H" arms back in place. Reinstall the plastic clips / screws and then put the door back on.
your thumpin noise is most likely a flat spot on your drum rollers. open the door and remove the 4 screws ( 2 on either side ). this will allow you to take the front panel off. after that is removed, there are 4 3/8 nut screws that hold on the front bulkhead. remove those screws and lift up on the bulkhead to remove ( note: you may need to remove the 2 nuts screws and brackets that secure the top so you can lift the top up ). after removing the bulkhead, you will need to undo the belt ( easiest if you do it from the back ) and take out the drum. your drum rollers are on the back of the dryer on the bottom. you can visually inspect them and if they are bad, they will need to be replaced. Joe
OK, this one's a few years old. First, of course, disconnect power to the machine. Second, remove the two phillips head screws, one at L and one at R near the bottom corners of the front panel. Third, pull the bottom of the front panel toward you and unhook it from the dryer's top. Swing it to the side. You do not have to disconnect the wires to the door switch. Fourth, remove the four 5/16 hex head screws holding the drum supports and set it aside. Fifth, put belt around the drum. The smooth side of the belt touches the drum. Sixth, belt goes to the motor drive pulley and then around the belt tensioning idler pulley. Seventh, put the drum support part back on and turn the drum by hand to make sure the belt tracks OK and has no twists in it. Eighth, finish reassembly and test. Note: genuine Maytag belts usually have installation instructions on the back of the package, with a couple diagrams.