Question about Washing Machines
I found your tip on "Not spinning" Oct. 1) helpful. It looks like my clutch is N.G. Any quick suggestions on replacing it? Any tricks? The entire outer sheet metal skin pulled off of my base structural assembly, exposing the guts. Is there anything else I should replace while I am into this? Thanks in advance. Stuts
The following link explains the steps required to replace the gearcase and clutch assembly on a Kenmore top loader model washer:
I know the link explains how to replace the entire gearcase, but you will need to remove it in order to get to the clutch and brake assemblies. If you are talking about the exterior washer case coming off the base, the link also explains how to re-install the case too. If you are NOT talking about the washer case, then please explain which "sheet metal skin" you are talking about.
When you disassemble the washer, look for signs of oil leakage. It will be honey colored and may be present on the interior sides of the washer casing or directly under the gearcase. If this is the case, I would recommend replacing the gearcase as well. This is generally a tale-tell sign that the gearcase is going bad. In addition, I would recommend you order and replace the motor coupling that's between the gearcase and drive motor. The coupling consists of two plastic pieces and a rubber bushing. This part takes a beating and does require replacement from time to time. It only makes since to replace it now while you have the washer apart, rather than going through the disassembly again later. A new one usually costs about $10. I'm posting an additional link that explains the process of replacing the motor coupling. Make sure you use the part number I provided:
Some of the steps may be a repeat, but I hope to be thorough. I hope all of this information can help you in some way. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 19, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Quick tips....Slow or
Lid switch defective. ( Very
Common problem )
Lid switch disconnect plug
Clothes between basket and
Lint filter caught between
the wash basket and outer holding tank.
Bad motor capacitor ( How
to check )
Timer switches. (
possible not allowing the pause required for the transmission to set up to
Cam driver on basket drive
broken or basket drive weak.
Notches in drive block worn
out and not engaging basket drive shaft.
Broken motor coupling. See
Replacing Motor Coupler Page
If your washer will not spin...first thing is to consider
if washer is RUNNING and not spinning or NOT RUNNING and not spinning. If the washer is
NOT running ( or working intermittently ) check lid switch for continuity.
Broken lid switch arm and the lid switch probe should be checked as well.
Something NEW to check for when looking at that lid
switch. Always a good idea to check for clothing between the tanks as well.
Make sure nothing has gone through one of the inner basket holes and is now
scrapping or jamming the tub from moving, such items may be a nail, pin, bra
If washer IS running, remove
power and remove cabinet. Use a piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid
switch wires, turn the timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull
it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn ( brown section in picture A ). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not,
then more often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring, also the
brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not turning and washer is not spinning, often
the failure is in the transmission gear box. ( see picture B ).
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