Question about Roper Dryers
Our old dryer stopped heating , tested wires all tested fine , bought a brand new dryer , it still wont heat .. replaced wires from the pole to meter box , replaced meter box , replaced wire from meter to a brand new circut breaker box , new wiring from box to dryer ..still wont heat , plz help !
Depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals
Posted on Feb 17, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
MAKE SURE YOUR VENT ISNT CLOGGED AND YOU HAVE 220 VOLTS AT THE DRYER IF ALL THIS CHECKS OUT GO TO ELEMENT WHICH IS BEHIND THE LOWER PANEL IN THE FRONT.REMOVE THE PANEL WITH THREE SCREWS ON THE BOTTOM AND TAP DOWN AND OUT AT THE SAME TIME. USE A VOLT OHM METER AND CHECK OHMS ACROSS THE TERMINALS OF THE HEATER IT SHOULD HAVE A OHM READING IF NOT CHANGE HEATER AND OPERATING THERMOSTAT GOOD LUCK
Posted on Dec 16, 2007
SOURCE: no heat from dryer
This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.
To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.
To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.
Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.
Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!
Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)
Posted on May 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Yup it was the heater!! I was able to remove and replace it for a fraction of what it would have cost me to have the repair man do it. Thanks for all your help."
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